Thursday, June 18, 2026

Road Scholar "Tales of Portugal and Spain".

 A record of our Road Scholar trip, "Tales of Portugal and Spain", taken April 3 to April 20, 2026.

Day minus 1: Saturday April 3. Then one day lost on ride to make it April 4.
We flew out on American Airlines, from Appleton to Chicago, to Philadelphia, to Lisbon.
Plenty of time to get to next plane on this ride. I ate light after experiencing some sickness last year.
This ride went well. 7 hour flight across the Atlantic.

Day 1: Sunday, April 5. Easter Sunday. Landed in Lisbon, a mid-larger airport.  Road Scholar man with sign waiting near airport exit.  We walked into line with many other landing airplanes this midmorning day. Very experienced crew shuffling us into next available cab, a large SUV.  About 45 min ride to hotel near the sea, some miles west of Lisbon. "Vilia Gale' Collection Palacio dos Orcas, for 2 nights. We arrived 9:30 am. Check in time was 3 pm.

An older hotel along a busy beach highway, with newer extension and outdoor pool added lately. We stayed in newer rooms. Hotel stored our suitcases. We walked the narrow hilly streets. Found a church ready for Mass and joined in. Left at Communion time. Church was more utilitarian style looking. A 30 some family choir on front right side with instruments was easy listening. 2 songs carried American pop melodies but changed wording to Christian worship. Not a word in English of course. Priest tlaked long about something, planting his repeating phrases to audience.

Walked to seashore but did not go to beach. Walkway by busy 50 mph highway was high above the beach. Some street walking. Too hilly and narrow to enjoy much.
We ate bag apples and bars, etc for lunch.

Got into our room by 2 pm. Outdoor pool directly in front of our step-up and out glass door.

We found an outside hotel area of  mature trees and stone paths. The highway again was down below a few stories, with sea bay beyond that.

6 pm sign in. Meet and greet. 7:30 pm dinner. 21 will be in group. Tour guide will be Natalia, 20 years removed from Puru she said. Now residing in Spain. Wine,  a white asparagus with smoked salmon soup, veal strips in mushroom sauce, whipped wild berry cheesecake mound. Wine very agreeable.

Day 2. Monday April 6. Breakfast at hotel. After 1st overnight.
A smaller 2 rooms with food selections of scramble eggs, mini pancakes, custom omelettes, twizzle sweet sticks, thin sausages smoked light and heavy. wiener bits, ham-bacon slices, sliced apples, oranges, muskmelon, cukes, pineapples, bread croissants, hard split mini rolls, adequate coffee; espresso or regular blend (not called Americano), baked seasoned on top tomato slices, various cheeses, many sweet offerings. 

9 am: Lecture, "History of Portugal". 2nd or most oldest set border country in Europe. Settle by Celtics, Germanic tribes, Christian expansion, Islamic conquest-Moors, Galicia Germanic yin yang, Christian retaking southern lands, military sea prowess, earthquake in 1755, population loss leaving for Brazil, dictatorship until 1970's. Still very Christian in worship. Language unique though some words same as Spain. 
11:15 am. 1st motorcoach trip. Cintra via Cascais, north of Lisbon. Bus driver is Carlos, a handsome 45-50 year old man from Portugal. Carlos will be with us all but last day of trip.
Seashore ride north to destination.
Cintra is a small town set against steep terrain with many small shops hanging on this hillside. A fort sits on top of cliff area. Rough cobblestone streets. Will be this way most of Portugal and Spain. Free time here after short street courtyard lecture. I dined on a burger meal taken from open door restaurant. Busy place. Busy peopled streets. The steepest street inclines of whole trip.

Drove to "Palace of Queluz", a summer castle for royalty built here because temps are a bit cooler than in Lisbon. Used 3 months of year. Royalty hunted the area for enjoyment. 2nd guide accompanied us.

Drove back to hotel in the rain, arriving 5:15, pm. I experienced jet leg in Cintra.

7:30 pm: Dinner at hotel. Veggie soup, sea bass in green asparagus risott,o. Lemon Merengue pie, wine, juice and coffee options.

Day 3: Tuesday, April 7. After 2nd hotel night.
7 am. Hotel breakfast buffet. Coffee from machine that uses flatter disc pouches. I pick the strength.
Luggage out by 7:30 am.
8:40 am. Motorcoach to Bele'm quarter, downtown Lisbon. Rainy day. Visited National Coach Museum. Rarest of old decorative horse drawn coaches in existence. One coach was inspiration for Disney Cinderella coach. 2nd guide was along.
Walked to sea where large stone pillar erected in the 1980's I believe, depicting Portugese important people from the past. Human figures climbing as steps on both sides of structure. A large flat map covered stone pavement in this square by the sea, showing Portuguese ship travels around the world. 

2:30 pm. Walked thru Chiado district of 2 squares and boulevard. Historic district with tall buildings and shops. Natalia guided a street tour to oldest continuous running bookstore, "Livraria & Cafe'". Purchased poem book and had it store stamped. Lunched on our own in a 3 story shop building. I had "Mr. Pizza" pizza. Large slices of little substance. Heavier rains as Rosie and I leisure walked to a large waterfront courtyard and back.
We rejoined our group at Lisbon's famous sweet shop, "Fabrica da Nata". Natalia treated. Rains ended.

4 pm. Back on the motorcoach. Left Lisbon, traveling north to Coimbriga.
Passed by Fatima entrance road. Much storm damage south and north of Fatima. Trees downed from a sea storm of severe winds a month earlier. Land on this ride was mostly treed and hilly.

6 pm check in at "Conimbriga Hotel do Paco for 2 nights. Quiet area overlooking grassy yard and drop off to lower town area, and rolling hills beyond looking west. Balcony room on 3rd floor I believe.
7:30 pm dinner downstairs overlooking back lawn yard. A pea green soup. Chicken breast stuffed with sausage and spinach. Saffro rice, nuts. Dessert was Sico curd cake with wild berries. Wine and beer unlimited on whold trip. Setting sun to view as we dined.

Day 4: Wednesday, April 8th. After 1st hotel night.
7:30 am breakfast buffet in same room as dinner held. Similar wide menu as first hotel. Numerous drinks to be had. Same with desserts.
9: 40 am. Motorcoach to Roman ruins in Condexia-a-Nova. Special guide was along. The first Conimbriga settlement area built by Romans from a village already there. One circular bath was of Christian origin. Outlines of Roman baths used by full population for a fee. Romans let religions stay in practice where they took over. One large wall remained along with some in distance showing about a 3/4 mile long rectangle protected area. Lower citizens were not protected but could enter if war started.

1:45 pm. Motorcoach to Coimbra City, site of large old university town with river running thru. University sitting on sharp hill with storefronts along a series of winding steps. After short acclamation tour, we lunched on our own. I chose bakery panini sandwich shop and open air street walking seating at store front.
We re-grouped and motorcoached to university hill top along narrow parked car streets. Walked thru university grounds. The old jail rooms. The grand old library of rare books from 1,500's, under high ceiling of wall filled shelves, side moveable wood ladders. Stories of how limited the books could be read in dim light from few windows. A look down into major hall where students read thesis to professors. All still in use by students. Students have the option to were black uniforms with cloaks. (the inspiration for Harry Potter movie uniforms). Then a walk out and down the numerous winding street sidwalk stairs back to town center near river.

4 pm. Attended a small theater Fado show of 3 players. Of more importance years ago during 60's-70's protest movement.
5 pm. Motorcoach back to hotel. Freshened up and light rest.
7 pm. Champagne type free drink at downstairs bar.
7:30 pm. Dinner in hotel. Large bowl of pumpkin and ginger soup with offers to have more. Salmon fillet with mustard sauce, leek puree' and glazed carrots. Caramelized custard for dessert.
Note: Aside from some Lisbon main artery streets, Portugal surfaces are covered with smaller cobble stone cemented in stones, slanted for rains, and to taper in with hills and buildings.

Day 5: Wednesday April 8th.
7:30 am breakfast at hotel. After 2nd hotel night.
Luggage outside rooms by 8 am.
8:30 am field trip on motorcoach to Bathalha village with large unfinished cathedral, with 2nd guide. A very large, long stone walled church with still an open top never finished section. Some work slowly being done. Did not get into the closed part of church. A storm loossened stones inside and was not safe.
Then short ride into town to walk inside walled courtyards, (was this "Monastery of Mariada Vitoria"?.

12:45 pm. Motorcoach to cork farm " Companhia das Lezirias' with special gal guide. Saw a horse stable yard with horses looking out Dutch door tops. Bussed out to cork trees with discussion. Cork harvested for 7 or 9 years and each tree labeled number of year it is on. Harvested up to lowest branches. Different cattle breeds roamed among cork tree prairie. 1:45 pm. Back to main buildings for lunch. Busy peopled cramped restaurant chairs with buffet menu of many hot items. Octopus, acorn fed (I think) soft pork. The squid...I did not partake. Wine all you can drink as usual.

2 pm. Motorcoach ride to north of Evora and next hotel. Convento do Espinheiro for 2 nights. A farmed outer field area. Large walk around perimeters. Old 6 ft tall stone walled fencing for cattle. Inside building of furnished walk thru rooms with antiques. Long walk from hotel rooms to dining room. Switch back walking over ramp floors and some stairs at times. We had an initial guided tour. 
Note: Convent = more social gatherings for prayer. Monastery = more silent, solitude for prayer. Does not mean nun or monk occupied.

7:30 pm dinner on grounds in hotel "Divinus Restaraunt", a long narrow multiple white arched walkway to tables over old stone tile floor. So elegant. We were given our own tables. French garlic cream with toasted almonds.Grilled seabream, creamed potatoes and sauteed turnip tops with citric olive oil. Hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream for dessert. 2 glassed of beer or wine.

Day 6: Friday April 10th.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. After 1st hotel night.
Enormous amount of foods. Breads, muffins, sausages, cheeses, honeycomb hanging for scraping off slices, coffee in table pouring canisters with waiters. oven tomatoes, salmon, nuts, oatmeal, yogurts, seeds, nuts, sweets galore.
9 am. Motorcoach to cork factory with a local guide gal. Cork is squared into 2 ft or so square pieces, then dipped in steaming water to soften. Then air dried. Cork will stay soft for days, to allow cutting. Different qualities of cork from a tree. Cork at this farm is sold for making items. Bottle corks use best quality grain cork. Portugal uses only cork in wine bottles as cork is a major industry. Retail room let us buy cork items.
10:30 am. Motorcoach 1/2 hr to old town Evora, world heritage city with big celebration plans for 2027.
Walk with city expert. Rough strewn cobblestone sidewalks and streets, ancient stone walled old city center. One tall post Greek column building outline remains on city center hill.

Natalia mentioned a lunch place up narrow street where I ate there along with a few other Road Scholars. A beer and sandwich roll.

More walking to old churches. History stories changed here a one inquest would move out another.
2:30 pm. Motorcoach back to hotel. We both walked the grounds on a sunny, warm afternoon. Cattle just over stone fencing. Large tiki bar and outdoor pool found. Gardens still using a gravity flow narrow stone channel watering system, now automated from hand pumping days. 
5:15 pm. Motorcoach to a make our own dinner at a family dining business house with veggie garden to tour just outside doors. Our group split into 2 long tables, making different parts of our soon to be eaten meal.  Plate of goat and sheep cheeses, a hard bologna sausage quick flamed and knive cut. Bean salad with tuna fish, local bread, Vinaigrette carrot salad, Main meal of Cod a' Bra's, Carne do Alguidar (pork), Sauteed golden potatoes with rosemary, tomato and fresh veggie salad, Evora jam and fresh fruits. Dessert: Roasted apple with cinnamon and Port wine (could have been cooked longer).  Drinks: wines, sangria, water. 
7:45 pm. Motorcoach back to hotel.

Day 7: Saturday April 11th.   ....where was Olivensa...the cheese country place,,,,??
7:00 am. Buffet breakfast at hotel. After 2nd hotel night.
7:30 am. Luggage out in hallway.
8:30 am. Checkout. 9:00 am. Motorcoach to Monsaraz.
We traveled south to just each to Lisbon, turned and traveled thru low agriculture wide river area of black ground. Then rising land. Many planted row very green leaf almond tree area. And olives, grape plants.
One flat land farm had tall post of mirrors we were told, to harvest sun energy. A cylinder on top covered in mirrors to harvest sun energy. My estimate was pole stood higher than a windmill, with mirror cylinder top being 12 ft round by 30 ft high. Very bright glowing object.

10:30 am, arrival. Local guide joined in. The hill top town, a walled fortress with arched path openings, coblle stone rising streets, white painted stone retail type looking buidings that also held residences. Now with just 50 people living here. Even the guide drove over. Town overlooking farms and to east, the lake river area border of Spain. Knights Templar once came to town and fought battle, winning it, and protecting the area.
12 noon, free time. We lunched with some others from group at outside picnic tables, after having purchased hot sandwiches in small shop and cook bringing to table. I found a beer also.
1:30 pm. We joined full group near an exit wall, purchased goodies in shops, then walked downward to parking lot and motor coached out traveling over river into Spain.

***End of our Portugal trip***
While we left Portugal 1:30 pm, it became 2:30 pm at river crossing. into forested pastures of pigs (used for their special flavor sliced pork sandwiches) joining cork trees, olive trees. Pigs were lean and deep gray. No rooting pig areas noticed....they were grazing the grass around trees.

***Beginning of Spain trip***
6:00 pm. Check in at hotel Inglaterra for 3 nights.
Busy downtown street corner hotel. Watch your one long step down out of hotel unto side walk!
Hotel 6 storied high. Top floor with open air restaurant and bar. Great views at night of cathedral and old mosque/cathedral. Both lit up. A city wide block (Park Nevue) fenced off for updating, just across the street. We could walk to main attractions. Follow that street car rail to keep bearings.
8:00 pm. Dinner at hotel. Starter of salad with tender lamb's lettuce, apple and goat cheese. Main course sirloin steak with whiskey sauce (me), or mushroom and asparagus risotto (Rosie).
Dessert: homemade cake or fruit salad. Red/white wine as usual, or beer, water.

Day 8: Sunday April 12th.
8:00 am. Buffet breakfast at hotel. After1st hotel night. Dining doors would open promptly at the hour and not before. Abundant food again. New split open roasted sausage links, coffee tha added water for Americano.
9:00 am. Lecture: "Spain Today", plus a walk with expert. 1600's to present. Politics, wealth, important products made. Special attention to Spain born individuals now working or having worked on large scale projects in the States....or was this Portugal...haha..........

10:30 am Free time and lunch on our own. We walked out from hotel a few blocks into the busy site seeing part of town. Large "Sevillia Cathedral". A Mass procession in progress outside, circling the square. Rose type flowers being tossed in air from boxed container. Church incense spouting up from these flower walkers. Dignitaries marching. Followed by horn instruments playing. Then re-entering the church. We would visit church later as a group.
More walking thru the wide streets and squares. I purchased a ........pork sandwich on the fresh poppyseed bread with onions, etc.. This meat sandwich seen all over Portugal, and even more in Spain. I found it a tad stringy to chew.
We sat on stairs to a main street statue and people watches. Horse drawn carriages were feathering visitors around a some of the nearby blocks.
Walked back to hotel. Beautiful day mid 70's with some breeze.
1:30 pm. Group walk to Real Alcazar and barrio Santa Cruz. Alcazar is Jewish section of narrow walking streets and small retail shops, restaurants. It was right next to our wide walking streets done earlier.
2:00 pm. Group walk to Sevilla Cathedral.

7:45 pm. Longer walk to our dinner at "Casa Puerta" restaurant. Tomato salad, gratinated leeks with truffled parmenter. Choice of sea bass, and salad, or Iberian pork shoulder with vegetable wok. Dessert was Coulant or homemade cake. Wines, beer, soft drinks selections as usual.
We walked back to hotel in darkness with shops still busy.

Note: Portugal gas price was appx 2.25 Euros. Spain 1.90 Euros. Both countries use Euros. With exchange rate, liter to gallons figured in, Portugal was appx $10 per gallon US. Spain $8+ per gallon US.

Day 9: Monday April 13th. (Violet's Birthday today)
7:30 am breakfast at hotel. After 2nd night at hotel.
8:15 am. Motorcoach ride to Cordoba. Long ride with one 15 min rest stop near La Luisiana town.
Variety of drinks and foods available.
Entrance to the Mezquita with a local guide. Walked to old city center. Narrow stone walled streets with 2-3 story lined white buildings and many blossoming flowers in pots.
Visited a few courtyards, famous for their flower pot display hanging from walls. A contest held yearly to pick best looking courtyard.  

 Tour of Alca'zares Cathedral-Mosque. Very large building ordained in more Mosque looking than church. Large church adorned alter. Modest number of pews. Some work being done at one side of inner building. Famed arched orange/red patterned archways, shown on most photos of Cordoba.

History: Visigoths ruled area first. They were a Germanic tribe, eventually taking a catholic form religion, then becoming full Christian about 500+AD. The Moors-Muslims invaded by 700 AD. The Christians had kept northern Portugal and Spain. They drove the Moors out again by 1500-1600. Some pillars were designed by Visigoths, some Christians, some Muslim. All three ruling groups show up on one of the pillars we were shown.

1:30 pm lunch on 2nd floor in narrow long table hall with wide open breeze window near where we sat. "Posada del Caballo Andaluz Restaurant. Starter portions of fried eggplants, cany honey artichokes a la Montillana. Main course Oxtail Stew or Cod "a la Cordobesa" with vegetables as a garnish dessert. Bottle of red and white wine per 4 people servings. Bread and coffee. I had the fish.

2:30 pm. Motorcoach return to Seville with no rest stop needed per group decision (many were sleeping).

4:30 pm. Walk to 1930's built "Plaza Espana". A large open air courtyard with channel water and rented small boats paddling around. Inner stone courtyard used by rented horse drawn carriages. Outer surrounded by 3 story brick lined buildings with upper story balconies for viewing.
6:30 pm. Walked on our own back to hotel. I stopped along the way for ice cream. Some of our group then passed by as we meandered more slowly with my delicious find. This town had a rail line that we could walk along to find our way back to hotel each time.

Day 10: Tuesday, April 14th. After 3rd night at hotel.
7:30 am. Breakfast buffet at hotel. Luggage out in hallway.
8:30 am. Check out. Walked to bus for pick up. Bus waited on a main street artery. We walked a few blocks along narrow streets with tight sidewalks.

9:00 am. Motorcoach to Arcos.
Bus ride southerly out of town. We passed by a replica of Magellan's only ship to return to port, completing it's first ever journey around the world. We did not fully stop....should have for 15 minutes, and I noted this to Road Scholar.
We continued out of town to Arcos. See photos of large city sign and view of cliff dwelling town with river runner before it. A 45 minute look-see and group photo.

Quick pit stop in country south of Seville motoring farther into farm land. Open acerage farms. Some farmers were straightening newly planted trees. Might have been from a recent windstorm. Not sure what type trees. 3 ft tall narrow plants with pipe type protective cover over stems.

Motorcoach to a country cheese shop (El Bosque cheese goat and sheep shop) with outdoor cheese and wine tasting, indoor video of the cheese making history and animal types they used. A limited breed of goat produced the "good cheese". Hard to increase its population due to a desire to also eat this breed.
Cool, sunny weather today. Enjoyable 60 plus degree day. Winding roads here. A bridge out from past storm detoured us 20 minutes to next stop. We were told of a month of long rains in this region.

2:30 pm. Made it to lunch in hilled village of Zahara de la Sierra, at Los Tados Restaurant. Famous town for its steep hill site. We walked narrow steep streets to other edge of town. Restaurant gave panoramic view from courtyard of rolling hills below, some sheep be herded thru trees by a barking dog. Mostly white buildings. Did not see industry. Town set on this very high hill that bus journeyed up to. A reservoir we crossed to get there and back.
3 course meal, quemones soup (their name for this soup), a peasant style bread, parsley, onion, garlic, olive oil mixture, then roast wild boar and chunk potatoes for main dish, and a dessert, Wine, beer as usual.
5:00 pm. Arrived in Ronda, another famous town set on hill with sharp cliffs, and a major geographical land split requiring age old bridge to connect both side of city. Busy with other tourists on sunny day and we manage fine. Our hotel. Catalonia Reina Vistoria for 2 nights was on main thoroughfare with easy straight walk along to find shopping, tourist area. Our room on 2nd floor looked directly over driveway to main street. We saw our group people walking out and back again to hotel these 2 days. Back of hotel sat on the high cliff for major viewing of countryside looking southerly.

6:15 pm. We were given a short walk to get acquainted. 
Then free time evening. Rosie and I walked back into the shopping area. We found the old bridge. I dined on McD tonight. Menu much more varied in Europe. Ate in wide court side along with other shops. Walked back to hotel before dark. Watched sundown from cliff near hotel. Long valley stretched out from cliff. Then higher mountain hills miles away where sun set occured.

Day 11. Wednesday, April 15th. After 1st night in hotel.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. We had private room to eat just off of buffet area. 
I took a morning stroll to see some side streets ending near cliffs. Another beautiful morning.

10 am. Walking field trip with group. We walked down the main street, detoured into tree lined park butting up against town cliff to south, then continued on again to bridge. the main road bridge was built 250 years ago. There we descended stairs continuing down to a cement courtyard looking back up at this bridge main street bridge of large stone one each at either side square columns built into sides of gorge, and looking down into gorge and river flowing thru. We descended more. Then looked to east to see the original first bridge built by the Moors 500 years ago. Descended more again to see the old Moorish baths ruins. We climber numerous stairs and uphill grades to get back on top again. We ended up in another quiet city courtyard of old trees and a church or two. On return trip to hotel, we entered the old bull fighting arena. Now just 2 events held per year due to the cost of preparing and running the events we were told. Hemingway watched the bull fighting here.
Stories told about bull fighters. They are very pale when entering the ring. A prayer room is near the arena entrance gate. The matadors move very little, letting the bull pass by, as they need to be sure where their feet are planted.  2 statues out front, a caped father and his not caped son. Son was the more famous bull fighter. 
Our group split up for noon and free time. Rosie and I found the guide recommended tapa restaurant along a narrow side street of shops. Think this place was called "Tapas.......". Tuna tapa and chicken tapa shared with beer and wine.
Walked back to hotel for a rest. Found a double espresso along the way. (We were given two and Rosie did not partake).
6 pm. A professional woman flamenco guitar player entertained us at the hotel.n Very strong rhythms.
8 pm, Dinner at hotel. Roasted vegetable mosaic with poached egg, Serrano ham, red pesto and parmesan powder seasoning blend. Main dish, Iberian Pork with salted biscuit, vanilla flavored panna cotta and salted caramel sauce. Red and white wines.

Day 12. Thursday, April 16th.
7 am. Buffet breakfast at hotel. After 2nd night in hotel.
8:30 am. Checkout.
9:00 am. Motorcoach to olive oil region.
Short wayside stop part way to region.
11:15 am. After winding up steep mountain type land and rounding curves with just guard rail and steep drop offs, we stopped at a small farm handling the olive oil processing for farmers close by.
Small operation with well-worn equipment. No processing done this time of year. Owner brought out a folding table, and place bread pieces plus his olive oil to dip. Also sold pecans, oil, to us.
 Then we traveled to nearby village, a name I did not keep in photos. Small stone houses on a few streets, all very clean. Our group split into 2, both groups sitting down for lunch in 2 separate small houses for lunch. The farmer's mother lived in our house. She prepared 4-5 course lunch. We could hear her wash dishes as we ate. Wine, salad with light vinegar mix, lentil type soup, sauteed potatoes, pork chunks, dessert cake, and taste of 2 deep, dark syrup sweet drinks from dark jug bottle that they make here.

We walked a few streets  the narrow streets lower to motorcoach pick up site. Motorcoach continued on to Granada for 1-1/2 hours, winding down the mountain hill to lower lands. All cultivated farming as we approached the city. Mostly young olive tree plantings. We drove into town past a newer tall hotel complex. It was away from downtown and glad we were not heading there. 

5 pm. Arrived near a busy intersecting street corner, the site of our last hotel "NH Collection Granada" for 2 nights. Our last hotel with Road Scholar group. Last time we would see Carlos, our driver the whole trip. I maneuvered over to him and place a nice euro tip in his hand. He stepped back to express facial gratitude. Very moving for me.
6:30 pm. Orientation walk. Large catholic church nearby. We did not enter. We did walk many blocks on a cobble stone sidewalk-street of shops and private apartment buildings. The grade continued at about 20 degree, sometimes making a 90 degree turn to go higher. About 1/2 hour walk to a top courtyard. Views of the Muslim walled city "Alhambra across the valley. Alahmbra is a city within the city.
A walk back nearer to hotel. About 6 of us stayed with guide and ate tapas, drank beer, in one of her recommended places to eat actually near our hotel. We shared 4 tapas of fish, pork, steak, chicken.

We walked back to hotel for the evening in the dark. Just a few blocks.
This hotel had one step at the main door entrance. I forgot about it next day. I walked out looking at the busy sidewalk of people. Had to catch my balance before falling by touching up against a surprised young female adult. I did apologize politely.

Day 13. Friday, April 17th. After 1st night in hotel.
Our room on 3rd floor, facing a busy T-corner, great for people watching. A hall building stood across the street. Some protest group gathered at 6 am. Shouted slogans, then left.

7 am. Breakfast at hotel. Rosie and I walked the morning streets, close to where we were the night before. 
10 am. Bus trip with new driver to Alhmabra. About a 20 minute circuitous trip to entrance. Then a meandering tree filled walk.
Alahambra is famous for its Muslim style architecture. Rooms that required 90 turns in narrow hallways, done on purpose for privacy we were told.

2 pm. Farewell lunch at "Rutas del Azafrarin" many blocks to walk from hotel. Very warm sunny day. Mixed green salad with tuna fish, hake fish with white wine sauce for main meal, with tiramisu, wine, beer.
3:30 pm. Free time.
 
6:30 pm. Wrap up farewell discussion with champagne type drinks in lower level of hotel. We shook hands and some of us hugged, some not. All in all another courdial farewell by all of us.

7:30 pm. Dinner on our own......where did we go??????

Day 14, April 18th.
Departure day from Road Scholar tour.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. 
8:30 am appx. Left hotel room with out luggage, entering hotel desk area. Our driver was already waiting to take us to Granada airport. So we walked out, not seeing Natalia. Driver was parked around side of building. Just as we readied to leave, Natalia ran to our car. We shook hands thru window and nodded thanks for a wonderful tour with her being our guide.
About 45 minutes to airport. This was not an international flight. We headed to Madrid. 5 Road Scholar people joined us at airport. We all took same flight to Madrid. One couple would stay in Madrid like us, but with different plans.

The flight (200 miles) was an hour or so long. We traveled over countless hills filled with olives, grapes and such. Leaving Granada, most were newer plantings.
Madrid airport was large, and we set down at busiest flight in time of day, mid afternoon.
We found our luggage and walked into a long continually moving line with 2 rows of taxis nearby. Attendants matched vehicles to our number and luggage. Some quick waves and we jumped in for a 45 minute ride to downtown Madrid.
Our hotel, a Holiday Inn group, was 1-2 stores off a main shopping drag and right downtown. Room was open for us. We went to hotel top balcony for a drink. Then walked to "Madrid Center", but when about 2 blocks away we stopped due to a loud large people event at this plaza. Political or was it from a major kilometer run planned that weekend. 
Where did we eat??
Back to hotel for the evening.

Day 15, April 19th.
Breakfast previously purchased with hotel room, and we dined about 7:30 am opening. A third of a size buffet from other hotels. Still enough on menu.
We had 10:30 entrance tickets to art museum Prada, about 20 minute walk away. Dallied on over, stopping into a nearby church to pass time. Then walked into museum 10:20. We stayed about 3 hours.
3 floors, many large size paintings. Spanish......was plentiful....Got to see my...... painting.
 Out again on the streets. We ate Tapas in a walking area of shops, sitting at tables not far from restaurant. No seating inside. Another sunny warm, not hot day. More walking and then back to hotel room. 
Rosie stayed in hotel, and I strolled for a good evening walk with sun slowly setting. The streets full of families and well-dressed night couples. Then returned to hotel.

Day 16, April 20th.
Breakfast again at hotel, purchased with hotel room in advance.
Hotel called in appointment for our taxi earlier, and it arrived mid-morning. Drove us back to Madrid airport. Good working family man we talked to. This was to our international flight back to states. Luggage checked for overseas flight. Passports checked.
We flew again with American Airlines, from Madrid to Dallas, to Appleton. About 8 hours to Dallas. Became a long flight when reaching shore and needing 2 more hours for Dallas landing. And made longer by young man in seat ahead who reclined all the way over full flight,with fidgeting the whole while. A good kid, just too nervous. Next time I shall look into seats with more room. We ate at a Friday's in Dallas. Apparently, the flight nauseated me, Nasal congestion starting, and the meal was very bland and not finished.
Finally on the plane to Appleton, which turned out to be less than 2 hour flight. We took Uber taxi to house. In the house about 12:30 AM.

Trip comments: Portugal and Spain were must-sees for us. Glad we visited both capitals. Another rewarding, relaxing ride over land in a 30 passenger, 2 side door motorcoach. All well planned, save for the olive oil small farm tour and taste in Spain. Nothing happening at the site. Portugal is a little sister to Spain, yet very independent minded with their beautiful long history equal to Spain's.
Perfect time to visit. Early April. Everything spring green, Warm temps. Fewer tourists.

-End-




Thursday, March 5, 2026

The Build

The Build
provides a basement 
for comforting doubt.

The Build
frames the ground floor
for family and faith.

The Build
leaves the attic 
with that sliver of light.

And on the roof top,
a golden innocence.

We gazed above
our farm catalpas,
toward July fireworks.

Wednesday, December 24, 2025

Merry Christmas For You

Low arching sunset.
High waxing moon.

Snow shoveled entrance.
Soon family and food.

Bright Christmas faces.
Gifts holding stories.

Then night falls on party.
Tail lights find driveway.

By late silent evening.
Spirits squeeze round me.

We drink to year ending.
Find closure and review.

At peace, loving Jesus.
Merry Christmas for You.

Thursday, October 16, 2025

Beauty

I watered your 5 berms today,
filling the hose with soaking rain.
Then walked along my leisured mind
and filled that full with autumn's beauty. 

I found your October colors laden
with hues made by summer's past.
Weathered now were flattened patterns
of centered golds to outer burgundy
resting on frosted zinnias.

I inspected the summer’s aging.
The slight firm bend in worn stalks,
tilted by west wandering winds.
The storm tossed coneflowers,
holding spent tipped seed pods.

Such quiet beauty settles me.

Your plot of wild geranium,
rising above a settled rock,
fronting leaps of staked red cosmos.
Wind so kicking them around-

Like waves dancing a rolling sea
that have waited just for me.

A fractured split like a wisdom crease.
A tan faced spirea of summer suns.
Straight up leaves with distinctive curl.
My subtle reminder of their youth-

I found them even lovelier,
when taking one more pass.

The slight bend on a mindful frame.
A facial line; A wisdom crease.
Your feathered tan from summer suns.
Your still distinctive curls.
A keepsake reminder from youth.

Such quiet beauty settles me-
Like waves dancing a rolling sea
that have waited just for me.

May I find you even lovelier,
shall I take just one more pass.

Tuesday, July 1, 2025

Broken

Your confidence bridges
my hesitant mind.

Loving eyes that tug me
down a summer’s slide.

Your kindness surrounds
every broken thought.

You are a trueness that writes
from a poet’s house.

But I shake-
As your wanting arms
wrap around me dearly.

I shake-
For the day you will leave
my long dreamt inadequacies.

For that day
you must leave,

my eyes
pleading
you cannot stay.


Wednesday, June 4, 2025

Road Scholar "A Mythical Journey: Stories That Shaped Modern Greece"

 A record of our Road Scholar trip to the Greece mainland from May 3 to May 15, 2025.

Overview: We made a circular motor coach route from Athens, driving west over the Corinth Canal, to Nafplio, Kalamata, Pylos, Nafpaktos, Arachova, and returning to Glyfada near Athens. Along the way, we visited the ancient sites of the Athens Agora, Hephaestus temple, the Acropolis and museum, the Parthenon, the Acropolis of Mycenae, beehive tomb of Agamemnon,  Epidaurus with its temple of Asclepios, the Dormitory, the Tholo and baths, the ancient theater. The Naphlio Venetian Arsenal, fortifications and Ottoman mosques. The Palace of Nestor site. The large fort of Methoni site rising above the sea coast. The ancient site of Olympia and its games. The sanctuary of Zeus. The holy site of Delphi and its museum, and home of Appolo. The Byzyntine monk monestary of Hosios Loukas at Distomo.

May 3, Saturday, midday. Day 1.
12:30 pm. United flight from Appleton to Chicago. 1-1/4 hr flight.
4:30 pm. United flight, 787, to Athens, Greece. 10-1/2 hr flight.


May 4th, Sunday. (one day lost with time change) Day 2.
Road Scholar pick up and shuttle to hotel.
Informed young driver happy to share info about Athens.

Arrived at hotel 'Divani Palace Acropolis", 5 star, at 10:30 am. Hotel in heart of crowded older streets just north of the Acropolis and Parthenon.

Lunched in bar room. Quiet afternoon with one other new trip couple nearby that road with us from airport. Oven baked pita type bread, ham, cheese, and "Ayos" beer. Rosie sack lunch.

Hotel room opened early about 1:30 pm. Relaxed. Walked a few streets staying near hotel. Streets and signs not an easy flow.

5 pm group introduction and lecture. Maryily will be our guide; tall, thin, long dark hair, Greek tone face, 37 years old she said. 22 travelers plus Marily and our driver of motor coach.. 5 of us from Wisconsin. A couple from Oconomowoc. One man from Sheboygan.

6 pm, dinner at nearby restaurant "Onos", 10 min walk.
Moussaka baked stack of spinach, ground beef, tomato, eggplant, olives, potatoes, in layered meal. Mild taste. Wine red or white. Bar nut chocolate for desert.
 
All walked back to hotel and returned to our rooms.

May 5th, Monday. Day 3.
7 am buffet breakfast at hotel. All the hotels we visited carried a very similar menu: Large thin sliced bacon strips. A small thin pale skinned short wiener type sausage. 2 to 3 egg choices: Sunny side eggs, plain scrambled-very wet. A more seasoned scrambled and sometimes folded. Many dry breads, sweet breads, pocket filled deserts, a smaller horn twist that was just the right softness and sweetness I took 1-2 each breakfast. Juices, coffee Americana though it varied in strength from hotel. Espresso option. fruits, and the best tasting sliced tomatoes at every breakfast.

9 am: Walked to the "Ancient Agora Market", an open area covered with stone outlines. Next to it, a large modern pillared walkway building with open side adjacent to market area. Inside, a museum of stone articles unearthed nearby.

Many cats day napping around town. Greece towns are happy with the cats living an easy life, mooching off visitors and residents when needed. The cats may have been for chasing away snakes from years ago we were told.

Lunched nearby at restaurant "Mnaipaktaphe", an open air restaurant in downtown district. Gyros- face up on pita bread. Olive oil salad to share. Never a dull iceberg lettuce in any of our meals. All delicious with onion, tomato, olive and such. The arugula here I could handle- not bitter or overly perfumy as in the states.

Motor coach to Acropolis. We will have same 30 "L'oee'ne" passenger bus and driver on whole trip.
2 side doors on bus, same as central Europe trip. So much easier to board and leave.
The museum housed in 2 story modern stone building. Much pottery, partial statues (Great Britain removed many pieces years ago (no one claimed any after a researcher removed them earlier) and substitutes are filled in with whiter color to mark copied pieces. Sequential dynasties shown. Mycenean, Dorian,  Sparta Trojan, Macedon, Hellenist, Ionion, Roman, Byzantine. 
Note we did not see the Acropolis this day yet.

We were closer now to hotel so all walked back.
Found nearby food store on same street. Purchased water (we were advised to drink bottled water on entire trip). I bought a chicken burrito sandwich. Rosie had her lunch packed.
Returned to hotel bar. Enjoyed 2 "MamoE" beers (rich lager type) and Rosie wine. Bartender provided nuts, and we sat by a shaded wall surrounded pool. Later ate our sandwiches in hotel room.

Walked to a money exchange for Euros some blocks away. Streets confusing. Narrow, sliced in partials at corners. Some angled streets thrown in. Memento shopped and returned to hotel.  Packed up for next day trip to Naphlio.

May 6th, Tuesday. Day 4.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel.
8 am luggage out by door.
Bell hops took luggage and put in hotel storage room.
Checked out of hotel. Rosie left mid size bag at hotel. We did not have bus to put it on. I shoved mine into large suitcase.
A walk to the Acropolis. A winding slippery rough stone path to top. Some stairs. Final walk had cement sidewalk but slanted and occasional stones left purposely....amusing way to trip.
Sunny in the 80's. Walked and talked slowly around entire Parthenon. A few workers scaffolding and grinding on a never to be done project. Wars left structure ruined. Will never be a roof on it again.
Descended and walked to lunch at the "Acropol", indoors. Greek/Egyption floral wall murals with maidens adorning walls.
Large chicken sides par baked plus yellow potato wedges in olive oil.  Shared a Greek salad with tomato, feta cheese, cabbage, fennel?, mild arugula. Delicious again.

Walked back to hotel. Everyone required to confirm luggage. Then loaded by hotel crew. 2 pm motor coach out of town, straddling the sea mid route. 
A stop at the Corinth Canal for bathroom and sightseeing. We walked over the road bridge. Photo taking. Surprisingly deep slightly tapered and narrow wall channel.
Souvenir shopped nearby.

Back on tour bus heading to Naphlio. Good ocean views of ships in docks and in one bay drilling for oil on 2 permanent stationed ships. Large refinery against shore.

Pulled away from sea to winding roads and some flatland nearer town. Mostly olive trees and small hay fields being harvested. Some goat grazing. Older small square stone buildings in fields. Vintage water pump posts with a one straight blade on top. None moving in light wind.

Drove into town. Seaside bay town with a huge event going on: 30 some luxury yacht exhibition and a few sailing ships, each sitting side by side. Walking planks out to cement city walkway. Handsome young crews waiting for buyers to show off boats.

Hotel "Amphitryon" sat looking north at the bay from west corner bluff of town. In the bay sat an old no longer used prison, now refurbished as a guest overnight stay we had heard. An older 30 some foot boat motoring casually back and forth.
We were on 3rd floor looking north over bay, with balcony. Beautiful. Bathroom with large wood blind window to bed and out to balcony view. Easy walk down to seafront area, and over to quaint, closely spaced small clothing, specialty, coffee, sweets, and ice cream stores.
Flowing vines hanging over walkways. Most stores along the 2 streets parallel to main road street and bay. Then, steep stone stairwells away from bay, taking one up farther to private homes and alleys. Stopped at a restaurant along a main square open area. MamoE beer again, Rosie wine, and people watching.

Dinner delayed one hour to 8 pm. We all walked (less Rosie who called it a day) along a curving uphill street above the sea, ending high over the bay, and into a building called "Napfio Palace" or similar. Then thru a large door, walking into a long wide cool corridor going into the hillside. Took small elevator 3 floors up to a windowed restaurant. Served wine beef cubes and light cream gravy with slice of lemon sitting over Greek mashed potatoes. All we could drink wine tonight as restaurant apologized for the 1 hour delay they had called us on earlier. Most reds served on trip were clean crisp. None with sulfates we were told.
Watched town and harbor area lights come on.  We all walked back to elevator, thru the corridor again, and down curving street into almost complete darkness of night. Temps stayed in 60's over night here. A few cars rambled and snorted by.

May 7, Wednesday. Day 5.
7:30 am buffet breakfast at hotel. 2nd floor.
Our coffee is waiter walked to tables as in Athens.
9 am tour bus to Epidaurus site. Ancient Greek healing place with large intact amphitheather. 12 K seating we were told. Site named after the god of medicine. 300 BC.
The tall amphitheater, made of high stepping stone blocks, still impressive in height and grandeur. A central spot marked where supposedly one can hear a talking voice over all of seating area. I walked almost to top. Some seats curved with backs, all stone carved out. Though seat backs now partially broken. The theater still in use. Mid 70's sunny day.
A walk around the grounds in a north area meadow. Ruined buildings left with few stone walls and many littered blocks.

Note: The Greece countryside very hilly and filled with farmed olive trees. Simple aging tractors found pulling single axle high sided trailers. Same tractors cutting down high grass around olive trees using a drawbar powered roller cutter, similar to our road crews but on a smaller scale. 

Note: Only the land north of Athens, south east of Corinth Sea, was flatter and with newer sometimes larger tractors.

Note: Towns have occasional empty unfinished structures from years ago. Both homes and businesses. Decrease in population and/or wealth figured.

Note: Some homes have dried, stacked olive tree wood nearby. 

Motor coach took us back to town. Lunch on our own in hotel. Oat bar, water. Then for coffee, ice cream on a slow walk around town streets and cement waterfront.

4:15 pm. Historical walk thru the old town. Old town streets were closest to hotel. New town farther away and noticeable by wider avenue which we walked along for an evening chef meal later.
Visited two Greek Orthodox type churches. One contained few chairs. Most members stand during service. No statues. Gold glittered wall drawings in frames and photo icon paintings hung for worship. Metal medallions hung from frames.

5:15 pm. Walked to newer town restaurant chef cooking studio about 20 minutes from hotel. Tall husband and short stocky wife bantered on who will instruct meal and who will discuss wine choices. 2 children we found out. One young lad came in after school. We prepared rice filled grape leaf rolls. A sweet honey infused thin cream filled phyllo dough that we pushed down into a cup attempting to make into a flower of sorts. This "glaktoboureko" baked in oven. Fun night. Wife's choice for wine, a clear white, no nitrate that satisfied. No after taste. She served extra, proud of her wine tasting selection skills.
Mr prepared bonelesss chicken halves, fried in chives, garlic, then oven baked. Melted in my mouth.
Mr. dad bid us a goodnight while we consumed our desert, so to be with their children. Happy couple who said they moved to this town just to start their cooking retaurant.

8:30 pm. Motor coach came by to return us to hotel. Maryily decided we had walked enough for the day. This town too accepted the many cats loitering around town. Once 2 cats walked on a nearby dinner table to taste the remaining food
I strolled back thru town again in late evening. Very safe town. Purchased my Komboloi, at the namesake's museum, mine chosen from olive wood.

May 8, Thursday. Day 6.
7:30 am breakfast buffet at hotel.
9:00 am motorcoach ride to Mycemae culture site. 40 minutes from Nafplio.
We stopped at a rest area 1/2 mile from site. Nearby, we walked into a man made stone honey comb cave structure built into a steep grassy hillside. Inside, an appx 45 ft diameter stone block built unit, made progressively smaller on upward to close completely at top, maybe 45 ft high. No openings, save the light coming in from tall doorway passage.

Got back on motor coach for short ride, and we were dropped off at the Mycenae city, built of stone, sitting on hillside, facing westerly, attempting to look down unto to the 10 mile distance to sea. A 15th to 12th century BC town. The site was called "13th century BC ruins. An active ancient town when temps were cooler and snow sat on hill tops for fresh water supply. The commanding views made for safety. The valley below was harvested. When an enemy marched forwarded, the field workers ran back to walled in town.  Maryily said their arch enemies lived just miles away and could be seen from Mycenae. The partial bay we saw was directly west of Naphlio where a large passenger ship had docked the day before. Naphlio itself was hidden from view. We saw outlines of a temple, shrine, and many fortress walls. A stone hillsided prairie. Wondered if it was ever tree covered.

Next, a 45 minute ride to the vineyard "Skouras", a very modern 2 story with basement unit. We toured the bottle assembly room, barrel room, vineyard. White wine is stored separate from red in a more controlled slightly cooler temp setting. We sat at long tables to drink 3 selections from a booklet of the dozen wines currently being sold. Each wine explained before a new pour. 
We dined on light meal of cheeses, prosciutto meats, a flakey flat filled bread of spinach, cheeses, baked. Thin round ham, salami plate, bread slices. Anoher delightful event. We wondered outdoors to the grape field. Red roses in bloom at ends of grape vine rows. If a virus of sorts enters the farm, the rose will wilt first to allow an application on vines before they wilt. Grapes were seen on vines less then 1/8" diameter just after blossoming.

Motor coach ride back to Nafplio via  Argos. Argos, with a super narrow lined commercial street thru town that is the main route. Back in Nafplio, we walked in town again. Found tall iced double espresso filled glass and scoop of banana chipped ice, ice cream. So smooth. Rosie took water and a Greek salad.

6 pm. A lecture on Peloponnese history. Eldered professor who bounced along on various rulers thru ancient history to almost present. Back at our room, I walked into town again for another late evening stroll. Some shops closing up. Eateries mostly still busy. Cats under outdoor tables. Flowered spring time trellises and vine growing trees blossoming. Beautiful time of year.

May 9th, Friday. Day 7.
7:30 am breakfast at hotel.
8:15 am early leave for Kalamata.
On the way, a drive to ancient Messene site, 4th century town on rolling hillside, just south west of Kalamata. Long winding 1/2 hr road to site. Passed stone homes as we got closer that viewed the site from above. A community founded where water continually flowed. Another site with smaller stone amphitheater,. And another stone theater viewing into a rectangular bowl. Stone pillars, a mausoleum type smaller build, former bath, shop outlines. This hill site faced south southwest.

A drive northward to a family olive oil making farm with 6,000 trees. Early 30's couple. 
The back yard overlooked falling away hillsides of olive trees. Nearby, a partial wall like castle no longer in use. One olive tree in yard thought to be 1,000 year old. Trees can grow to 1,600 years old at times. Tree age determined by trunk size. Each 1/2 (meter?) is 100 years. A 2.5 (meter?) is 500 years old. Birds don't like olives, too bitter and/or too poisonous. 
Per family discussion, there are 2 types of trees, one (Koroneiki in Greece) for oil, one (Kalamata in Greece) for olives, and more. Olives are harvested starting in November for 4 months. First olives are more robust, harvested as extra virgin. A net is placed below tree and tree shaken. The smaller, unwanted olives fall thru. A large pile of browned tree parts waste sat near outside conveyor. Neighbors were free to take and use as fertilizer. It takes 15 workers to harvest the 6,000 trees in the 4 month harvest time. Saw 2 medium size tractors, a single axle trailer, roller type grass cutter, under one open building. One building for the stainless steel processing machines. Another building for having our luncheon. We walked around yard, noted the trees were just done blossoming and starting granular fruit.

We tasted 3 oils on crusted home made bread, extra virgin, and 2 virgin. Different aromas from each. The more virgin, the less aroma I thought. Our meal, feta chunk cheese row. Greek's biggest claim to fame for cheeses and so sorry they never copy righted the name. Crusted roll treat row, tomato quarters  row. One strong bitter aroma white wine I gave to Rosie. Different tastes we have. Lemon cream mix and sweet crusted rolls I could use for dipping. 

Late afternoon drive to Hotel Elite, Kalamata, a few miles from downtown along busy 4 lane beachfront avenue. Main hotel building contained restaurant and check in desk. Our group given rooms 5 plus minutes back on winding street with walkways up to rooms. Each building held about 2 units. Our unit had upper loft we did not use. 2 wall AC units took awhile to cool room. No view in back. Small campers and clothes washer building behind us. Chicken fenced yard off to side. Sharp climbing hills some miles east holding homes until too steep to build. The ocean front had peaceful wave action during our stay. Stoney beach in most places made too hard for walking. Ouch on my arches. I put shoes back on to get off beach.

7 pm dinner at hotel with view of street front and ocean. This area flat surfaced. Very large covered porch seating along street.
Beef on polenta risotto. Large Greek salads to share. Fried moussaka. Mythos beer. 
A walk back to room.  Our room called, "The Day Sailing" Villa. A food market a few blocks down beach street. We continually stocked up on bottled water and bought also from motor coach driver for one Euro.

May 10th, Saturday, Day 8.
7 am buffet breakfast at hotel. One new egg dish. All else same as other stops. Small coffee cups more fit for expresso but adequate. "Filtered Coffee" name on coffee maker was supposedly closest to the American version.

8:45 am. Motor coach depart for downtown Kalamata. 15 minute ride away.
Walking tour. We had tickets for the Karelia Museum, a quiet 3 story clothes museum showing original wear during the 18-19 centuries. The “Karelia”woman responsible for collecting and displaying. Detailed intricate sewings on all. Many wore medallions and such, also representing the same eras.

Continued our walk to a Greek Orthodox-Byzantine church. Tall light blue exterior. Same squareness and holding even fewer chairs as those we visited earlier. The padre, a large man with beard, black robe, and rosary type beads, met us and was found later happily walking the morning streets nearby.

Onward to a smaller store called "Kostsears", producing a Greek liquor named "Oyso". Evidently this brew is a well known Greek standard. Also other flavored varieties. We tasted 2 of our choice. Mine, heavy on texture, weight, thickness, odor, strength. Interesting to try. Would not be my choice of drink.

Approaching noon, we toured a large farmers market. It stretched far down the street as a long building having an open sided porch with vegetable venders by street and cafes, delicacy stores on inside of porch. Walking into building center, it seemed to be more for fish selling and mostly not used. Activity also extended down away from building with sellers in a park like tent setting. Very busy until early afternoon.

We all dined outside near street at "TA POVAA" in Greek name. After securing 2 long tables, we were called in to choose a meal at counter. Then to wait for business to bring it out. I chose a large casserole spaghetti square with table bottled water.
We were told our bus pick up location, so left to walk the retail streets. Rosie and I went separate ways. Minor shopping. I purchased an espresso coffee. Very small, thick and strong. Rested in a community square where bus would pick up. Rosie walked by. We assembled for bus ride back to hotel. 

Walked again to grocery store nearby hotel. Purchased more water. 
Note: Many small items were lower cost then in the States. Euro to dollar exchange was about 1.18 US to 1 Euro. A near gallon of water appx 35 cents euro. Magnets in Greece, 2 to 3 dollars euro. My espresso coffee, $1.50 Euros.

6 pm lecture on the clothes worn in the ancient times. Held in a building between our rooms and main hotel. Virtually all clothes history was taken from the stone statues and stone wall art found.

7:15 appx. We bused back downtown for dinner at "KAPAAMO". Outside dining. Friendly staff. One entry after another came to us. Red and White wine choices till bottles emptied. We ate rooster, octopus, meatballs, zucchini, large green salad, giant cooked green beans (this bean type common in Greece restaurants), and veal. As we left, the waiter crew stood in line to say goodbye. Was good? asked head waiter. With eyes up to heaven, I rubbed my belly and opened faced my hands to imply I was now too fat from the good food. He slapped my shoulder, nodded and laughed. Eating rooster, rather than just chicken, was an odyssey menu item in 2 places we ate. 

Motor coach ride back to hotel. The downtown and long avenue by sea, thick with Saturday evening traffic. This street avenue filled with restaurants. Some tiki bar tables were on sandy sea side of street. The downtown was a few blocks removed from beach avenue.

May 11, Sunday. Mother's Day. Day 9.
7 am buffet breakfast at hotel.
9 am, later start (convenient as we had been busy) motor coach to western Messenia. 
A one hour drive. This place called "Palace of Nestor", not far from Pylos.
A royal family lived here on hilltop estate. Some walled. One rambling square building with many rooms...possibly 30 x 30 yards. Now excavated and under man made steel curved roof cover with open sides. The original home had a second floor. Stone stairs still standing. Upper was made of wood.  From the hill, one can see a partial view of ocean a few miles in distance. One room contained a stone soaking tub. All burnt in a fire many eons ago. Man made stairs and cat walks took us above the remains for a full walk over.

Next, a motor coach ride to Pylos downtown, a seaside resort town built along a towering hill looking into large sea bay. Nice village treed town square on flat surface with stores around and all near the cement docks. Some retail built on streets climbing up from bay downtown. Basically just one winding road heading down steep hillside into city and back up steep hillside on other end.
We lunched under outdoor canopy extension of restaurant. Main course, a fish booyah soup. Clams, octopus, shrimp, etc in a reddish liquid. An ocean concoction I found to be a tad overwhelming half through because of the ocean brine....and eating so many critters at once.
Free time to walk the square and shop retail.

Motor coach pick up for a slow climb out of town to a land protrusion out into sea. On it, the large remains of a Venetian stone walled fort. 2 major sea battles took place here, per Marily.
A few hours walking the site. One small catholic church still intact....though pigeons had our watch over the alter. No longer a door on church.  Each succession of wars and retreats brought different building.
Back on bus for trip down into town again and long ride back up hill retracing our route.
Arrived back at hotel about 6 pm. A longer day today.

Free night for dinner. The group split to attend other restaurants on the ocean strip. We were bushed enough to just relax in the hotel restaurant. Soon 3 more couples from our group arrived also.
Too windy and cool to sit out in the large porch area. We ate inside. 2 other couples tried outdoors and returned also. 16,oz or so bottle of OIE EVVAI 1864 beer. Meal of 2 burgers, deep fried potato chunks, leaf salad. About 16 Euro. Rosie salad chicken?
A walk back to hotel room. We slept all 3 nights in Kalamata in our unit behind main hotel.

May 12, Monday. Day 9.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. Luggage out 7 am. Leave time was 9 am but delayed as hotel staff checked all luggage was out of rooms. Then delayed at corner of main hotel for more driver and guide discussion. 
On the road 9:35 am. A drive to Olympia, original site of the first scheduled Greek games.
On the way, a bus stop break at corner gas station food mart.

Olympia is a large site with many stone pillars still standing. Remains of a gymnasium, a refurbished track field I believe, supposedly near where original games held.  A flood uncovered old statues, all now put in museums.
A "shame" walkway. Anyone caught cheating had their likeness chiseled in stone and mounted with their names attached.

Note: Greek soldiers cleansed their bodies after every battle. Having to kill another human being was not to be taken lightly.

Onward to the Corinth Sea bridge. A stop after bridge for photos. Then a short ride to rest stop, fully loaded coffee, breads, sweets, ice creams, on and on stocked place. Seems most buses stopped here.
I purchased Americana coffee. We snacked on crackers, water, and myself an ice cream bar.

We were now on the north side of Corinth Sea, into the Greece mainland. We sig zigzagged along the sea, heading from west to east. Noticeable dryer, rockier hillsides. The sea was not wide, perhaps 2 miles wide on average. Occasional fish farming behind down in the many small bays. No large ships noticed.
Closing in on Arachova, the bus pulled north away from sea.

We arrived at hotel Anemolia Domotel, a solidly built ski chalet 3 story building overlooking the deep mountain valleys to west. Such beauty.
We freshened up and attended group buffet dinner. Pork chops, meat balls, potatoes, veggie chunks, whole olives, chicken chunks., EZA lager beer est 1989. Another sponge/orange tasting very moist cake piece for desert.
Later we sat in lobby as rain stopped. Then a very short walk outdoors. Retired for the night.

May 13, Tuesday Day 10.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. Very busy place. One 60 year old male server just poured coffee at machine to keep our line moving. Busy day I said. Every day like this, he replied. By second day he noticed me and said, coffee black!
Interesting other stout tourists walking in at about 6 ft tall average and unaware they were blocking the aisles at times.

9 am. Motor coach trip to Delphi site. A hillside worship town destroyed and looted, like all sites in Greece at one time. This town built on the most severe hill slope of all the sites we visited.
The future was found here on your pilgrimage by seeing an orca, "The Oracle of Delphi"was asked the pertinent questions of the time. A stone and concrete path took one to final top, overlooking all. A few including Rosie, made it to top. I stopped at a convenient overlook and slowly returned to bathroom break and a wait at museum entrance.

The museum contained many notable statues and stone chiseled wall art. 
As Marily said many times, The replica statues are outdoors. The original statues are kept in museums.
It was noted England still holds many pieces of ancient work, taken before modern Greece became a country. Not all their fault.....a capitalist adventurer dug them. They sat without a taking until England purchased them. This was a high quality medium size museum.
Rain started. We stood outside under some trees waiting for our bus. Tight quarters and no blame on our driver. He was a very capable driver the whole trip. Possibly 60-65 years old.

A drive to the city of Delphi nearby. Narrow street on a hillside. Small town.
Lunch on our own. About 10 of us opted for the quiet looking restaurant close by called "PATRIKO MAS", a Greek Mediterranean Restaurant. Many tables were claimed for reservations, but waiters got us in and we were gratelfull. Another professional staff. I could tell our surprise group addition taxed them, but all went well and we tipped graciously on our own. No time to tour town as we lunched longer than planned. We walked back to bus.

Motor coach ride back to hotel. A 2 hour rest time at hotel.
We took a walk up the only other winding road at hotel. Found a modern soccer field tucked into hillside. Returned to hotel, not wanting to wander longer on the hillside guardrail only street.
Chatted in hotel upper bar lobby with others. More occasional rain outdoors. Then back to hotel room.

6:30 pm. Motor coach into Arachova, about 2 winding miles away. A beautiful hillside hugging resort town. A ski resort with private extra homes for wealthy clients.
Narrow streets. The whole town no more than 3 short blocks wide up the hillside. One main road.
Still light rain. Driver had to drop us off some distance from restaurant. We single line puddle jumped along a sidewalk built for one half pedestrian. Restaurant called "TABEPNA".
We dined on dishes of veggie salad, toasted bread, olive paste, cheese paste, chicken, potatoes, beef chunk stew, lamb, pork, and watermelon, cantaloupe for desert. The only beer offered was Thyos.

A long stroll back and forth on the main street. Excellent viewing with evening darkening skies.

8:45 pm. A drive back to hotel and slow return to room for the night.

May 14, Wednesday. Day 11.
7 am buffet breakfast at hotel.
8 am. Luggage out.
9 am. Motor coach ride toward Glyfada, near Athens.
A planned detour to visit Byzantine Greek Orthodox Church with large courtyard still in operation.
Small food shop and souvenir shop in side building. A small simple elegant museum with artifacts of busts and stone chiseled sayings. The countryside scorched by recent fire. Trail of burned trees came near church and then jumped over into next sloping valley.

Back on bus, we traveled a few hours to large wayside north of Athens in Distomo, I believe.
Rosie and I snacked on our apple and bars. I purchased coffee for about $1.50 Euro. A fellow traveler offered over his too many fries, purchased from Goody's Burger House, a McD knock off. All signs in English. Coffee pastry shop and some other small restauarant stands housed in same building.

About 2 pm we arrived at our last hotel in Glyfada along the seashore, southwest of Athens. The old airport not far away. It being developed into resorts. Mid 70's and full sun. After checking in, we walked across busy 4 lane boulevard to the shore and sand beach, 2 blocks removed from boulevard. Passenger train tracks and bike path in between street and beach. 

6 pm. Gathered in dining side room to discuss with Marily our thoughts on the trip. Then dinner with
2 large ladles of pumpkin soup. I kindly asked for only one ladle.
Baked salmon over mushrooms, peppers, light white/yellow sauce. Excellent.
Chocolate Mousse with one large strawberry on top for desert. Why sure.

A final goodbye with all. Everyone in group stayed to shake hands and/or hug. We were a determined group making sure to visit and get along with everyone and it showed. 

May 15, Thursday. Day 12.
7 am breakfast at hotel.
9:45 am chauffeur driven to airport for our 12:35 pm flight on United Airlines to Chicago, then Appleton.
One hour flight delay wait in Chicago for an Appleton thunderstorm to end. Bouncy Appleton jet ride by young pilot.

We arrived in Appleton 10:15 pm, same day of Thursday, having reversed course back in time. Brother Mike took us to house from airport.

Another great trip. Loved the mainland motor coach ride though towns and countryside. Ancient sites were well blended in with the more personal visits to restaurants, vineyard, olive farm, smaller places of interest.

Program could have been one day longer in Glyfada. A tad rushed. 

End.


Friday, May 2, 2025

Seeing You Today

Seeing you today-
my heart released a kiss.

I placed it on your face-
My eyes gave way to mist.

Remembering the day-
we hugged and walked and laughed.

I touched your velvet breath
and not your photograph.

Wednesday, January 15, 2025

Bright Eyes

Bright eyes-

plowing my way

pocketing my smile

hugging my surety

holding my future.


Bright eyes-

placing the sun

timing the moon

weaving love stitches

raising loved daughters.


Bright eyes-

pulling stacked books

under tucked covers.

Leaving my Jupiter

and my Neptune to

watch over me.

Saturday, January 4, 2025

Forever

If I could linger
in your long embrace
forever-

but I must never
my loving friend
for if I dare-

the all of you
will be my loss
forever.

Thursday, December 12, 2024

The Journey

Having journeyed to
San Antonio,
Nashville,
and Memphis,

I do believe
stubborn differences
can be solved

nearer

a blues band,
brisket,
and drink,

nearer

a soulful
blues band,
and drink,

nearer

a soulful
blues man,
with drink.

Friday, November 22, 2024

The Error

I penciled two lines,
for my cutout notch,
to add a latch in back door.

I chiseled so carefully,
but cut along the wrong lines,
and crafted a glowing error.

I darkened my lines,
chiseled once more,
and dolefully screwed in the latch.

With the error full exposed,
I confessed to my spouse,
who replied with another door fact.

She said our last house front door
counted three chiseled notches.
I’ve wondered why someone put them there.

You've cut only two.
Put away your tools.
Two won’t matter much dear.

My shoulders relaxed.
Disappointment diminished.
My burden released by a share.

So sorry for the soul-
who stands alone in his head-
when clouds hang low in the air.

Thursday, August 22, 2024

Crystal, Silver, and Gold

The heavens stayed silent.
The earth cut no stone.
The day hung no banner.

The night dreamed alone.

When love sprouted.
Our love kiss new oak.

Soon our tree became crystal.
Then flourished to fine silver.

In one more year, our tree will turn gold.

Imagine the accolades,
on the last day we're old.

Monday, July 8, 2024

Road Scholar Central Europe Trip

A record of our Road Scholar trip taken May 14 thru May 31, 2024.

 "The Best of Krakow, Budapest, Vienna, Prague"

May 14, Tuesday: Late morning.
United flight from Appleton to Chicago. 
Lufthansa flight from Chicago to Frankfurt. 747 Boeing.
Dinner and breakfast on plane.
Frankfurt airport long walk. Long line to check passports before boarding again.
Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt to Krakow.

May 15,Wednesday: Krakow.
Arrived at hotel Novotel 11:30 am. Newly refurbished. Street outside under construction.
We are within walking distance of Krakow Old Town Square.
We are on a street bluff above Vltura River. But river hidden by city street buildings. River carries medium size boat traffic. Mostly tourist boats. Some permanent anchored restaraunts.
Must keep in mind, Europe buildings have "0" zero for ground floor.
Free time to walk a few blocks near hotel, then receive room key, and soon after, plane luggage.
Some jet lag on first and 2nd day.

4:30 pm: Intro meeting for Krakow. Anna (Czech heritage) will be our guide the full trip. Maybe 30 years old.
Yannina (Polish heritage) our guide for Poland. Maybe 40 years old.
Our group will number about 25 total. We each introduced one another. Only 2 other couples with same last name. Surprised. Most were widowed, single, and/or remarried. Many were world travelers.
Age range in our group: estimating 60 to 85 years old.

Dinner in another room at hotel. Pumpkin/paprika cream with basil croutons, grilled chicken fillet, sweet potato puree, veggies, cheesecake.

May 16, Thursday: Krakow.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. Numerous items; scrambled, hard boiled eggs, hot and cold meats, breads, butter, jams, jellies, small sweet rolls, small cakes, coffee from machines making Americano, espresso, latte, and more. Juice machine, tea, cereals, whole fruits.
Each hotel we stayed at presented a large variety of similar breakfast food.
Coffee in Europe very strong. And I grew to like it as Americano and Espresso.

8:00 am. Lecture: "Krakow, City of Art and Culture" discussion with Ms. Monika Murzyn-Kupisz.
History of Krakow and changing of Polish border from beginning thru now. For a time in history, Poland did not exsist. 

Walk along river bluff to Wawel Castle, past the metal dragon, and on to Cathedral, the St, Stanislaus tomb and many more. Tomb of Tadeusz Koscinszki, famous Poland and early U.S. military leader.  No photos allowed. Front center walk around island monument in church is considered the historic central worship/kingdom/corination/annointing place in all of Poland. Krakow is considered the cultural heart of Poland. Warsaw instead, is the government seat nation and commerce center. Warsaw bombed in WII. Krakow spared.

Tour of St. Mary's Basilica. We will tour many large Christian buildings in Europe.

Lunch at "Tradycja" Polish/Italian restaurant. Polish dumplings, pork, saurkraut, cheese.
Walk to Old Town Square. One street showed 4 churches in a row. (Poland still 95% Catholic on paper).

Piano concerto in smaller hall upstairs building named, "Bonerowski Palace". 19 year old male who played Chopin numbers, with candle chandeliers burning for a backdrop, before 2nd story windowed yard.

Group dispersal. We walked Old Town Square. Dined at "Chopin Restaraunt" (coincidence with name) It was convenient on the square and under court yard umbrellas. People watched the square while dining. Ksiazece lager beer. Rosie white wine.
Earlier, a long happy procession came by, recreating a “young people govern weekend”, held each year. All sang.  Later, many same colored pull over shirt guys walked this route,quietly going thru Square. A labor group?

We both walked slowly back to hotel in evening. About a 25 minute casual walk, taking us out of the square and past Wawel Castle, and on a bluff walkway with views of river. Then across a busy stop lighted north south street, and on to our dug up hotel street.

May 17, Friday: Krakow
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
8:00 am. Morning trip to Auschwitz (42 miles) and to Birkenau, just 1 mile away. The largest concentration camp bases during WII. Bus took us thru populated tiled house countryside with many small roundabouts. Some open fields, but little farming being done. Guide Janina said Poland imports agricultural foods. Farming not competitive. Workers go to Germany and bring money home. Much walking at the 2 sites. Rough stoned walkways at Auschwitz.  Sadness still all around. Our guide, Suzanna, 50-ish, wore a sad creased lined face. Still,  her duty to tell the story. Farming horse barns at Birkenau housed many people. Little heat. No sanitation. Much starving. Weather overcast with threatening rain to the south all morning. Train rails still there. And original electric wired fence.

Bus returned us 15 minute route for late lunch at "Old Tree Villa". Janina said Ukraine refugees had been housed here recently. Pumpkin roast, rice, veggies, yeast dough.coffee, tea. All counties visited have taken in thousands of Ukraine refugees.
Bus returned to hotel for a routine freshen up.

6:30 pm. Bus drove south over river to Kazimierz Jewish section. Few Jews remain. Walking tour. A tad rain as we started out. Childhood place of Helena Rubinstein, cosmetic titan. Saw the old synagague. Sitting statue of Jan Karski.
Stepped into retaurant named Szeroka Street Diner. Chicken noodle soup, salmon dinner with large cake and klezmer cream dessert. 3 pc violin, guitar, horn group entertaned in tightly snug room. 2 of 3 had been playing in another outside courtyard earlier.
9:30 pm. Bus ride back to hotel in light rain.

May 18, Saturday: Krakow.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Our final day in Krakow. Walking tour of Old Town Square again. Toured Collegium Maius, Oldest university in Poland. Copenicus studied here. His tools. Quiet large enlosed courtyard. Brick walls. Old wooden doors. Study, sleep room. Globe showing America as a very small island. Larger long lecture room with hard wooden pew sitting, large wall paintings of previous university heads.

Visited Francican Basilica (St. Francids). Dark, tall motiffs, famous free form "God the Father" stained glass window in rear. Very large open side doors, large hinged side doors on artistic main alter.

Tour of Czartoryscy Museum. Poland's oldest. Da Vicni and Rembrandt paintings. Huge collection of Christian statue art.
Free time from noon to afternoon.. Lunch on our own. I purchased one small fried ham/bread delicacy. One cream filled cooled pastry (lighter tasting dough, and filling was similar to our knee cap cream).
Toured vendor stands in courtyard. Watched stage dancing, singing by"the hill people") who traditionally live in countryside. Colorful cloth costumes. We were told they still dress this way for weddings.
We walked around most of the green area surrounding the courtyard. This land held 2 fortress walls. Sinced taken down and planted with trees. Tall trees with blacktop walkway and park benches along both sides. Many strollers doing same. Pleasant. Cigarets still common on streets. Detected weed once, twice, on whole trip. And I have a nose for finding it.

Some free hours in late afternoon. Gay community concerned this day about a planned “far right” march, per our guide. Never materialized. Saw a few silent marchers. Late afternoon walk back to hotel in sun heated weather.

6:15pm. A 25 minute walk again to Old Town square. "Goscinna Chata" restaurant, downstairs, brick enclouser, like a wine cellar. Pork and dill dumplings, shredded carrots, shredded cabbage, heavy coffee, beer. 32 oz.
Janina bid us farewell before dinner. Left for mother duties with 2 children. Janina, on return bus from Auschwitz, was asked political situation here. She, very concerned about the Ukraine war. Fears the Russians are near again. 40 years Russian rule (after Nazi rule) with neighbors not trusting each other and parents coming home beaten because someone said something. In some ways, Russians worse than Nazis.

Night walk back to hotel with a few others from group plus Anna. Gone is Janina, a sweet, knowledgeable woman.

May 19, Sunday: Krakow to Budapest.
6:30 am, luggage put in hall for bus trip.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.

8:00 am. Leave on tour bus for Budapest.
Bus traveled south out of Krakow, thru rolling land with farm fields, small villages, and some woodlands.
Stopped at a road side gas travel area for bathroom. The land open and rather flat here. Then became rolling hillsides after boarding. Some picturesque villages away from main roads.
We later entered Slovakia with only a minor stop to check our weight, Anna said (but laughed). Then off again into more hills and woods, continually traveling higher to 3,000 feet.

Anna would speak in comments ending with “yah”. Then we go to rest stop in 15 minutes, yah. You will like the restaurant food, yah. Did you have enough time, yah?
Reminded of my family ending many sentences with “and so”. We will go to the store first, then the bank, and so.?

Stopped at a ski resort in Donovaly for lunch at "Donovalsky Pivovar" or also "Stodola"?
Walked some outside metal grate stairs to the restaurant.
Building next door named "Donoval Brewery". Roast pork lunch with salad, herb dumplings, salads to choose, espresso coffee. Some light rain while there. 

The road thru Slovakia wove up and down, zigzagging thru hills, with a few road work areas where stop lights were installed for one lane traffic. Most of the land forested in the higher elevations. Road work is done on small scale.

Continued south thru Slovakia. Here the villages at times very close to road. Parishoners were gathered near their quaint chuches or strolling nearby in conversation. Tiny roadside prayer adoration stands stood along the road in country areas.
The land elevation lowered again before entering Hungary without stopping. The land opened up more. We were told the fields were large due to the Communist regime way of farming where they took the small farms to make large business agriculture, and the land has stayed this way since.

Slovakia and Czechia have a mutual commitment of support with one another.

One more stop for bathroom break nearer Budapest.
Cannot recall the exact place.

We entered Budapest, arriving downtown to the "Hotel Continental". Budapest is a city with tall 5-8 story stone buildings on the Pest side. Our hotel in Pest on a one way narrow street some blocks east of the river. But we could walk to river and over bridges in 20 minutes. Hotel had a large dark brown metal turn style door. An older, stately, hotel that worked for us. View of small courtyard from window on 3rd? floor. Dick Van Dyke style beds in room.

6 pm orientation with Hungary guide Klara. Motherly Anna, of course along for whole of trip. Klara 47 years old I think she said. blond bounce hair, thin, chiseled down nose. Same good person type as other guides.

15 minute walk to dinner at "Koleves" restaurant, upstairs. Older place with wood creaking floors. Jewish style fish, warm salad fo carrots, zucchini, bell pepper strips. Dessert with 2 ball scoops chocolate covered liquor flavored white cream inners. Glass of red wine, "Jackfall Totagas". plus "Chavarian Lager" beer.

Walked back to hotel on crowded narrow streets. Some street visitors visiting from southern Turkish/Bosnian because drinks are cheaper here.
Street names hung on corner buildings. Hard to remember names because of language.

May 20, Monday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. This the most varied laden display of food at breakfast. Thick bacan/hams, numerous pastries, breads. cheeses, hot meats, hot potato dishes, hot soup types, hot veggies in sauce, beans. Large iron kettles for some. And fruits, puddings, rich cake slices, juices, onions.
Note: Each hotel had the coffee makers with button choices of Americano, espresso, latte, etc. available.

Political and economic lecture at hotel. 
Hungary has only one larger lake, 375 or so acres, and use for summer retreats. 60%? of population live in Budapest.
Current President is moderate right. 

Bus trip to City Park and "Heroes Square" via historical Andraasy Street, homes of the original wealthy families. Tall, large, tightly spaced stone mansions, on a wide boulevard. However, boulevard is filled by center tree island, bike lanes, sidewalks, and double direction lanes.

After a discussion and site seeing walk, we continued to "Szechenyi Garden", a low lying more plain utility restaurant serving up teas, water, juices. This place more for a rest and drink area while tour walking.

Bus ride to the "Old Opera House". Renowned hall, adorned with historical ornaments.
On an adjoining stone stair case, we looked down to see 2 opera singers perform a short male/female tease affair, set in fron of her wardrobe and mirror. Parts of 4 famous operas.
The bus drove back to hotel. We got off earlier at river’s edge, about 20 minute walk from our hotel.

We walked northward, then west across the south side of the "Scechenyl Brigde", (also called the Chain Bridge?), and meandered on Buda side street near river, then back over same bridge taking north side. Bridge very "Brooklyn Bridge-esc.
The sun grew hot, and our walk back to hotel required a map get out and street sign discovery. We did not take out smart phone map.....too tired to realize our handy phone could help this day.
Note: Our lunch consisted of an apple, peanut butter crackers, bar snacks, and water brought along from hotel. We ate near bridge before crossing.
Washed up in hotel room. Rested on bed with my feet throbbing this time.

6 pm. We met in hotel lobby and walked to the Jewish Quarter nearby. With a solid downpour outside, we walked to see the stone map on wall near out hotel outlining the original streets.

Contineued on to a "ruin pub". Called this because it has not been updated since the last wars. Each of offered a vodka/pear or berry tall shot. A local drink here. Rain continued at this semi open bar.

We walked on to restaurant "Macesz Bistro" on dub utca 26 (street).  Large skinless chicken breast dropped i pumpkin/squash sauce (reddish), with small round potatoes, supposedly a Jewish dish. A few Hungarian young professionals mixed in at our long tables. They volunteer their time to talk, eat, and answer questions about them and their country.
Rain stopped as we walked back to hotel. It was Pentecost weekend, a catholic feast day on Monday. Though residents no longer observe the catholic element, they did take off from work, and enjoyed the weekend thru Monday nightlife with us. 

May 21, Tuesday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel 7 am.
8:30 am. Walk to the Palace district. Again on Pest side of river. Pest streets, mentioned earlier, have the tall stone buildings of apartments, businesses, and stately homes. On business streets, the ground floors are stores.
Wenckheim Palace. Now Szabo Ervin library. Historic filled rooms. Once made for their family, there are dining, dancing, study rooms, a monument room, and hidden wall entrences for butlers and maids to attend the family.
A lecture room displaying maps of early 1700's United States, a Wisconsin area map, a California area map.
The Count and family lived here in 1890's. Then left with war coming. Back and out again some years . And returning in 1925 with wars ending.

Back in the city park area, a statue of Ronald Raegen looks to our U.S. embassy. A tribute to him (and Margaret Thatcher) for getting them to join the European Union for protection.

Took the electric trolley line (overhead wires typical for all cities we visited). With some here on rubber wheels, but still using overhead wires. Got off at Kossuth Square. Saw the Hungarian Parliament building, Liberty Square, where some group, most likely the Russians, gunned down hundreds during a peaceful march to Parliament. An underground museum solemnly records the event in large black and white photos. Also films running of old survivors remembering the event.
Then a walk to riverbank where an art display is of empty shoes lining river walk. This is where citizens were shot and dropped in river. Art landmark.

Next, a walk to "First Strudel House". Large bowl of steaming hot Hungarian Goulash-reddish sauce with vegetables. Then a strudel folding demonstration using apple chunks and cottage cheese, with us eating the still warm pastry pieces, with coffee, after. Rosie was given a glutten free cherry desert.
An open afternoon. 7 of us walked 20 minutes to "The Street Market" near the river, a famous long food lined building of smoked meats, cheeses, deserts, liquor, raw farm vegetable, paprika vendors, candies, and tons of collectible memorabilia set up on a second floor.

We 7 split up to shop independently. Rosie and I walked back to hotel later, taking first a route north along river Danube, then turning onto Szbad-Kossuth-Rakoczi-to Dohamy (our hotel). We freshened up, took elevator to roof. Saw the outside pool and the neighboring building roofs nearby. Then downstairs to hotel retaurant for a light supper, wine, beer, watching street walkers go by. 
An evening walk out some blocks, then up to hotel room for the night.

May 22, Wednesday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel 7 am.
9:15 am. Walked to the Tram (street bus on rails with above wires).
Drove about 6 blocks to the Hungarian National Galery, across river, on Buda side. The castle high on overlooking hillside to river below and Pest. Outside courtyard. The many painted Christian carvings made in rural villages and brought to city, during the old Hungarian Kingdom.

12:30 pmn. Lunch at "Korana Kavehaz" restaurant nearby. Large Caesar salad (more on the mayo side) and choice of desert. Mine....coconut cheesecake from display case. And espresso coffee. Getting used to strong coffee all over.
More walking. To "Civilian Town", the north part of castle district.
Then to St. Mathias Church. A huge, tall Gothic church. Side stairs brought us to 2nd floor.
Took a great upstairs photo of hazy lighting hitting pillars and pews, statues, below.  A young man started playing organ music.

3:30 pm. Free time. No buses allowed up in castle district. So guides called taxis to drive us back to hotel after a wait to organize the taxis.
Freshened up.

Headed for boat ride on the Danube. Both boat rides we had were very relaxing, and full of conversation. Abundant buffet again. Champagne, beer, wine with meal, all on lower deck.
Chicken quarters over red potato/squash type sauce, nugget noodles, vegetables in broth, breads, small cake deserts, and more smaller dishes.
Later walked upstairs to open deck for a beautiful evening as sun set over hills of Buda. Driver provided us a slow river ride once we turned back on trip. Excellent evening.
Said goodbye to Klara, our informative Hungarian host.

May 23, Thursday. Budapest to Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. 
Large luggage bag out by door early.
Motor coach to Vienna. We drove through western Hungary, seeing open farm fields with a few farm
machinery.
Noticed a solid line of semis heading west. For the Ukraine war effort, we heard.
Made a rest stop on highway. Inside the "station" was a delicious looking buffet spread of meats, potatios, veggies. and more.  We were not hungry at this stop. Water was always available on bus.

As we drew closer to Austria, many windmills, solar panels, and one huge oil refinery as we rode into Vienna. 
Arrived at "Hotel Ananas", early afternoon. Quite far into city, but not close to old district like the other 3 cities we visited, where one walk would put us at the old center. Needed subway each time to old city center.

Intro to Vienna by lecturer, brochure, maps.
Lucas will be our Austrian host. About 30 years old. Nasel voice, dry humor attempts. Nice man. Longer black hair.

Interesting note, Hungarian language unlike any other language. Tribes settled the area and made the language. Ambulances, police cars and such, have long names not similar to other countries.

Took the "U4" line subway to old Vienna city center.
Toured giant St. Steven's Basilica. Another ancient church, darkish inside, filled with art, statues, alters.
Then walking around city center, ending at the Hasburg Dynasty courtyard. Horsed still held in stalls.

A walk to dinner nearby at "Beim Czaak", ( A Czech place in Vienna). Weinner schnitzel-breaded pork tenderloin, Schladminger beer- so smooth and creamy. Ice cream coating over a peach cream inner.
Took the U4 subway line back to hotel.

May 24, Friday. Vienna.
6:30 am. Breakfast buffet at hotel.
A tad less variety here. But still good variety And foods seldom rotated. Bacon thin and chewy. hmmm.
9 am: Lecture. Understanding Austria.

10:30 am. Private bus to "Ring Boulevard". Modern Vienna. UN building, busse across Danube River to the north and a quick u-turn back south. Surprised the Danube not a sightseeing worthy place. No high river banks. Downtown some blocks south of river.

Bus stopped at odd famous "Hundertwasser Village". An hour walk and trinket buying place.
 
Back to busy street and on the bus to lunch at "Schonbrun Stockl"??  Restaurant.
Avocado cuke salad with french bread, secret sauce dumplings with berry for dipping.
We stopped before seeing Palace.

Bus to Schondbrunn Palace, south of town. Summer residence of Hasburg family. Long multi story buildin on grounds. Sprawling tree filled, mowed, clipped, statued grounds. Exacting tree lines. But just small gravel filled walk ways. Large long building with meeting, dining, ballroom, study grand painted rooms.

Bus back to hotel for freshen up.
5:00 pm. Leave on U4 subway for dinner at "Stadtwirt Restaurant". 3 course meal. Viennese vegetable soup, braised rolled beef steaks, bacon, over mashed potatoes. White curd dumpling desert of hot 2 scoup balls filled with strawberries.

A walk to live concert. About 14 violin, horn,bass, drum muscisians playing on low stage before red curtains in long high ceiling room. A sampling of opera included affair with 2 dancers at times singing. Fun male/female bantering exchanged. Chairs were plastic replicas of high backed 1800's concert design....awful but sat comfortably enough. 
Took the U4 subway again back to hotel. Late this night. 10:30 pm. A full day!

May 25, Saturday. Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
9:30 am lecture on "The Treasures of the Hasburgs". This family inter married (not uncommon then), and it produced the extended male chins found on family paintings. The married spanish blood later and chins went away.

10:30 am.  Boarded the subway again to "Kunsthistoriches Museum". Famous paintings by Rahpeal, Bruegel, Rambrant, Vernmear. Large collection of christian themed paintings. Paintings of the royalty realizing the battle is lost and the male showing with a knife in hand....to kill his partner so she would not suffer later. A common theme then we were told.
The Hasburg Imperial Palace paintings. They collected enough to warrant building 2 places.

1:30 pm. On our own remainder of day.
We walked the old town, eating granola bars, apples, water, while standing on landing outside building with rain falling. Tried walking but stopped again 1/2 block north under a arched stoned car entry way with employee governing what cars alowed in. No vehicles came/went while there. 
Then out again in a lighter mist, but walked south past the musuem again. Found a McDonalds for my coffee. China cup with large fresh hole doughnut. Fancy.
Continued walking around easterly and then north on a sidewalk treed parkway, to the Applied Arts Museum. Wood furniture, fabrics, inventions in the history of cloth. A large 'History of Protests" room. full wall displays sequential years world wide protests. 
Walked south again but veered east into "Statue Park". Johanas Sraus gold statue, others. Small creek ran thru. Walled river "Weinflus"? bordered east side. 
We cut west back into old center. Looked for dinner. Found a narrow street with restaurant menu outside. A waitress (or owner) welcomed our looking. 

Took a chance and found a lovely 400 year old, round ceiling narrow restaurant named "Restaurant der Kuckuck". One couple entered later. Then a group of 5-6. Photos.
Took subway back. We purposely walked farther south to find a U4 entry only subway so as not to change trains enroute.
Back to hotel 7:30 pm.

May 26, Sunday. Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. Little or no food variations at this buffet. Every morning a marbled cake sitting for sweets. Coffee great as usual. Room is fine. But shower sits in center of tub with hard to hold shower head.

9:00 am. Lecture at hotel, "Great Musicians". While lecturer made comments on historical musical events, a guest violinist played parts of more well known songs as we the audience guessed the title...One gentlemen, Bill, in our group knew them all.
10:30 am. Private bus to art nouveau designed buildings. Otto Wagner.
A look at the Sezession Building. Exibition hall for contempory art.

A bus drive out of town to The Kircle am Steinoff designed church. After a long walk up hill on an old stone walk, we found this white modernistic tastEfully painted gold ornamented building, inside and out. On the grounds of a well known sanatorium with a questionable past. A simple white maker small lot on grounds of young people who died during experimentation with special needs kids. Painted interior was to be a calming help for the young in church.

A bus ride to "Restaurant Rellergown". Thin sliced soft beef plate with potatoes, side of steamed broccoli, colliflower, mushrooms.
Public bus ride to Belvadere Palace. Large grounds south of town with sloping, landscaped hillside with long view out to city outline. Museum art included "The Kiss", Gustav Klint. And more.....

4;15 pm. Private bus back to hotel.
6:15 pm. Bus ride out of town to old suburban wound street area. Private dinner, Wort Regina??
Family style dinner, Chicken, fried breaded pork, ham slices, another large plate of breaded veggies, mushrooms, colliflower an such. Bear and wine. (When drinks were included in a meal, it was one each. More were offered, and we paid for these before leaving).
2 musicians played throughout, one on accordion, one on violin. Playing well known American songs and world songs we would know.....and expecting some $$ handed their way for the service.
Buss brought us back to hotel for the day's end.
We said goodbye to Lucas.

May 27, Monday. Vienna to Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Set out large travel bags.
8:30 am. Depart for Prague. “Ahoy!” Anna would say on every bus trip. Motor coach drove north, northwest along winding river, on an interstate type road, thru Austria into Czechy. Again no stop at border.
Country of my Bohemian great, great, paternal grandparents ancestor side. And my German Bohemian Maternal great grandparents ancestor side.
I felt it.

Continued country travel to a truck rest stop, but it was closed. Luckily, a casual restaurant nearby, next to our road travels, left us use the rest room. Felt glad for Anna who until today had everything clicking for her. Walked around the place and some left for another gas station 2 tenths of a mile away to buy trinkets, chocolate bars.

On the road again only 1 hour more, stopping in Trebon, a super quaint village. Bus parked in lot south of village. We walked a worn dirt trail past 200 year old trees. Then up on a berm that held a lake used for carp farming, a popular industry here. Entered town past castle like buildings, past a walled entry, and found 2-3 block long town square with center fountain.
Lunched at.......  Carp soup, fried dumplings, large bare salad of tomato, cuke, few leafy greens. No desert. Purchased a local beer. Pasquel Urquel. Probably the most served beer in Czechia I noticed later.

Back on bus. Drove thru rolling hilled farm land. Field tractor lanes blacktopped. Common for these countries is that farmers live in village, then drive to fields and back. Small dairy heards in countries we visited. Most lands for grains it seems.
Wooded lands are "farmed" by piling the brush on to large piles in open areas along roads.
I wondered if the burn them sometime in year.

We stopped before entering Prague at a large gas station. We were now only 10-15 minutes from my paternal great, great, grandfather and great, great grandmother's home village of Bendova Zahori. Married here about 1859. Then left for America.

Back on bus, entering Pragus outskirts. Industrial, business, trucking buildings first. The land fell away as bus drove past high buildings of apartments and such. Higher side hills then previous entry ways to other cities.
Our hotel "Hotel Central Park", bordered both old and "new town. "New" being relative as it was also very old. 
5 pm discussion in hotel. Lucie our new city host. Then we found our rooms. Lucie, late 40’s, thin, dark hair, wise, charming.

An older stately building bunched in with others along city street with road repair being done to east. Glass elevator in hotel. Our room was small, with 2 narrow joining beds, a window with view of concrete wall nearby, and light only coming in from floors up roof opening. But, we were here and satisfied. Anna had mentioned at start of trip that hotel rooms would become smaller in later countries.
We walked to an open square where trolly rails round a corner and some stopped here. Had to be very alert when walking. Rail lines and stone layed pavement were all same height and of similar color. And the above electric lined trolly buses remained quiet going by.
Ate ar "L Kolkovna Celnice restaurant. Pork slices and mashed potato chunks, bread. Pasquel beer again my only choice.
8:00 pm. Rosie and I walked ourselves around hotel and to west side streets. We were 1-2 blocks from the old tower, a remanent of blackened stone forted city where tolls were paid to enter.
9:10 pm we returned to hotel for the night.

May 28, Tuesday. Prague.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. 2 rooms opened up as hotel breakfasters were many.
A varied display of foods here again. Some changed daily.
8:30 am. Walked thru our Old Town tour, stopping at a Jewish museum, next a synague, or was it the other way around. One with an old stone tablet cemetary. Alright, enough.Jewish legacy places on our trip we determined. If more, we might pass.

A light rain today throughout morning tours.

12:30 pm. Lunch at "Michal". Noodles with beef.
2 pm. We stopped for views of the Vltava river, here a low dam across wide river. Entered the Smetana museum. A musician played recorded pieces from Czech composers Smetana and Dvorak, with audience input, questions. 
We walked across the St. Charles Bridge, now all pedestrian only. Many stautues on bridge, added in later years.
Took the tran rail back to near hotel where the big rail curve is, mentioned earlier.
Free evening.
We walked some streets around the Jon Huss statue in old square. Remembering Prague had another open area adjoining wide boulevard street.
Looking for dinner, we turned thru a walk thru building to another parallel shopping street. Then another open walk thru to find smaller courtyard used by restaurant "Mala Brasserie". Dinned in courtyard of small iron/wood tables and iron metal chairs. I ate flat bread pizza, beer. Rosie salad, wine.
7:45 pm. We walked back to hotel.

May 29, Wednesday. Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
8:45 am. Archateture lecture, History of Prague buildings.
10:30 am. Bus ride to Prague Castle. 
A dark faced cathedral with large courtyards. A sloping view to city.
12:30 pm. Lunch in Prague Castle. Salmon sandwiches and fries. (The one meal I did not finish...tastebuds did not like)
Bus or tram took us back to hotel. Free afternoon.

4:30 pm. Bus ride to "rilke cyruse"?? restaurant on boat. Long, beautiful ride with our group and guides.

5:00 pm. A buffet of chicken quarters, fried breaded colliflower,cold stewed beets, chopped veggiies, soup/sauce, yellowed soft mashed potatoes.baked honey ham,cured long peppers, beer,wine, 4-5 small desserts to choose.
Walked upper deck after dining and talked after dining. 
9:00 pm bus back to hotel.

May 30, Thursday. Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Free morning. Walked to the old clock again. Took a better video there, without the rain, and left video run thru the full strikes for 9 am.
Rosie and I walked to the Mucha Museum for a test look see test. 
Then a round-a-bout walk back to hotel.

11:00 am. Bus ride to Strahov Monestary.
The 1504 book on Americal, etc...
Bus back to hotel. Some rain falling.
We walked again to the Mucha Museum. This time to view and Rosie to shop there.
Walked thru the shopping streets again, all west of the old black tower. 
Then to the center again with curved multi train track route.
Found the Restaurant "cerveny Jelen".Home of a top 4 brew master in country. We were told the hockey player who scored the "winning" first goal to end the pro hockey playoff, was sitting outside restaurant. Chose a special poured beer of 1/2 Urquel lager and 1/2 old vintage dark beer.
Wine for Rosie. No food.

More free time and readying room for our USA return.

6:45 pm. Walked to our good bye farewell 3 course dinner at the "Municipal House nearby.
Potato round scoups with beef slices I believe.
At end, we rang our glasses to Anna. Then sang, "For she's a jolly good fellow..."
A short speech by Anna. Said no one ever sang to her on a trip and we all laughed.
Said good bye to Lucie, our helpful Czechia  host.
Walked back to hotel.

May 31, Friday. Prague to USA.
6:45 am. Departed in van to airport. Anna had breakfast bagged for us 6 leaving at that time.
A big hug with Anna, who allowed our thanks for all she did. And out we went into a van. Long ride with city/suburb winding streets. And a mile or so tunnel half way there. Krakow airport compact and clean.

Luftansa flight from Krakow, to Munich.
Munich airport longer with tad confusing rail system.

Luftansa flight from to Munich to Chicago.
777 Boeing. Plenty to eat and drink again on flight.
Hard bouncing from one wheel side to the other on landing. Wind? All just glad we landed.

United flight from Chicago to Appleton. Our first and only soft landing.

June 1: We left Krakow on May 31, morning, and entered Chicago on June 1, evening, of same 24 hr period.)
Probably why little jet leg. But a mental hangover from our beautiful trip lasting for days.

Best trip ever we've been on. Most anticipated. It did not dissapoint. Good easy going travelers to be with for 14-15 days.

Smoothest beer found: Schladminger BioZwicki, an organic Austrian barley lager beer. Yes!, the 60 something year old waiter agreed.

End.