A record of our Road Scholar trip taken May 14 thru May 31, 2024.
"The Best of Krakow, Budapest, Vienna, Prague"
May 14, Tuesday: Late morning.
United flight from Appleton to Chicago.
Lufthansa flight from Chicago to Frankfurt. 747 Boeing.
Dinner and breakfast on plane.
Frankfurt airport long walk. Long line to check passports before boarding again.
Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt to Krakow.
May 15,Wednesday: Krakow.
Arrived at hotel Novotel 11:30 am. Newly refurbished. Street outside under construction.
We are within walking distance of Krakow Old Town Square.
We are on a street bluff above Vltura River. But river hidden by city street buildings. River carries medium size boat traffic. Mostly tourist boats. Some permanent anchored restaraunts.
Must keep in mind, Europe buildings have "0" zero for ground floor.
Free time to walk a few blocks near hotel, then receive room key, and soon after, plane luggage.
Some jet lag on first and 2nd day.
4:30 pm: Intro meeting for Krakow. Anna (Czech heritage) will be our guide the full trip. Maybe 30 years old.
Yannina (Polish heritage) our guide for Poland. Maybe 40 years old.
Our group will number about 25 total. We each introduced one another. Only 2 other couples with same last name. Surprised. Most were widowed, single, and/or remarried. Many were world travelers.
Age range in our group: estimating 60 to 85 years old.
Dinner in another room at hotel. Pumpkin/paprika cream with basil croutons, grilled chicken fillet, sweet potato puree, veggies, cheesecake.
May 16, Thursday: Krakow.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. Numerous items; scrambled, hard boiled eggs, hot and cold meats, breads, butter, jams, jellies, small sweet rolls, small cakes, coffee from machines making Americano, espresso, latte, and more. Juice machine, tea, cereals, whole fruits.
Each hotel we stayed at presented a large variety of similar breakfast food.
Coffee in Europe very strong. And I grew to like it as Americano and Espresso.
8:00 am. Lecture: "Krakow, City of Art and Culture" discussion with Ms. Monika Murzyn-Kupisz.
History of Krakow and changing of Polish border from beginning thru now. For a time in history, Poland did not exsist.
Walk along river bluff to Wawel Castle, past the metal dragon, and on to Cathedral, the St, Stanislaus tomb and many more. Tomb of Tadeusz Koscinszki, famous Poland and early U.S. military leader. No photos allowed. Front center walk around island monument in church is considered the historic central worship/kingdom/corination/annointing place in all of Poland. Krakow is considered the cultural heart of Poland. Warsaw instead, is the government seat nation and commerce center. Warsaw bombed in WII. Krakow spared.
Tour of St. Mary's Basilica. We will tour many large Christian buildings in Europe.
Lunch at "Tradycja" Polish/Italian restaurant. Polish dumplings, pork, saurkraut, cheese.
Walk to Old Town Square. One street showed 4 churches in a row. (Poland still 95% Catholic on paper).
Piano concerto in smaller hall upstairs building named, "Bonerowski Palace". 19 year old male who played Chopin numbers, with candle chandeliers burning for a backdrop, before 2nd story windowed yard.
Group dispersal. We walked Old Town Square. Dined at "Chopin Restaraunt" (coincidence with name) It was convenient on the square and under court yard umbrellas. People watched the square while dining. Ksiazece lager beer. Rosie white wine.
Earlier, a long happy procession came by, recreating a “young people govern weekend”, held each year. All sang. Later, many same colored pull over shirt guys walked this route,quietly going thru Square. A labor group?
We both walked slowly back to hotel in evening. About a 25 minute casual walk, taking us out of the square and past Wawel Castle, and on a bluff walkway with views of river. Then across a busy stop lighted north south street, and on to our dug up hotel street.
May 17, Friday: Krakow
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
8:00 am. Morning trip to Auschwitz (42 miles) and to Birkenau, just 1 mile away. The largest concentration camp bases during WII. Bus took us thru populated tiled house countryside with many small roundabouts. Some open fields, but little farming being done. Guide Janina said Poland imports agricultural foods. Farming not competitive. Workers go to Germany and bring money home. Much walking at the 2 sites. Rough stoned walkways at Auschwitz. Sadness still all around. Our guide, Suzanna, 50-ish, wore a sad creased lined face. Still, her duty to tell the story. Farming horse barns at Birkenau housed many people. Little heat. No sanitation. Much starving. Weather overcast with threatening rain to the south all morning. Train rails still there. And original electric wired fence.
Bus returned us 15 minute route for late lunch at "Old Tree Villa". Janina said Ukraine refugees had been housed here recently. Pumpkin roast, rice, veggies, yeast dough.coffee, tea. All counties visited have taken in thousands of Ukraine refugees.
Bus returned to hotel for a routine freshen up.
6:30 pm. Bus drove south over river to Kazimierz Jewish section. Few Jews remain. Walking tour. A tad rain as we started out. Childhood place of Helena Rubinstein, cosmetic titan. Saw the old synagague. Sitting statue of Jan Karski.
Stepped into retaurant named Szeroka Street Diner. Chicken noodle soup, salmon dinner with large cake and klezmer cream dessert. 3 pc violin, guitar, horn group entertaned in tightly snug room. 2 of 3 had been playing in another outside courtyard earlier.
9:30 pm. Bus ride back to hotel in light rain.
May 18, Saturday: Krakow.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Our final day in Krakow. Walking tour of Old Town Square again. Toured Collegium Maius, Oldest university in Poland. Copenicus studied here. His tools. Quiet large enlosed courtyard. Brick walls. Old wooden doors. Study, sleep room. Globe showing America as a very small island. Larger long lecture room with hard wooden pew sitting, large wall paintings of previous university heads.
Visited Francican Basilica (St. Francids). Dark, tall motiffs, famous free form "God the Father" stained glass window in rear. Very large open side doors, large hinged side doors on artistic main alter.
Tour of Czartoryscy Museum. Poland's oldest. Da Vicni and Rembrandt paintings. Huge collection of Christian statue art.
Free time from noon to afternoon.. Lunch on our own. I purchased one small fried ham/bread delicacy. One cream filled cooled pastry (lighter tasting dough, and filling was similar to our knee cap cream).
Toured vendor stands in courtyard. Watched stage dancing, singing by"the hill people") who traditionally live in countryside. Colorful cloth costumes. We were told they still dress this way for weddings.
We walked around most of the green area surrounding the courtyard. This land held 2 fortress walls. Sinced taken down and planted with trees. Tall trees with blacktop walkway and park benches along both sides. Many strollers doing same. Pleasant. Cigarets still common on streets. Detected weed once, twice, on whole trip. And I have a nose for finding it.
Some free hours in late afternoon. Gay community concerned this day about a planned “far right” march, per our guide. Never materialized. Saw a few silent marchers. Late afternoon walk back to hotel in sun heated weather.
6:15pm. A 25 minute walk again to Old Town square. "Goscinna Chata" restaurant, downstairs, brick enclouser, like a wine cellar. Pork and dill dumplings, shredded carrots, shredded cabbage, heavy coffee, beer. 32 oz.
Janina bid us farewell before dinner. Left for mother duties with 2 children. Janina, on return bus from Auschwitz, was asked political situation here. She, very concerned about the Ukraine war. Fears the Russians are near again. 40 years Russian rule (after Nazi rule) with neighbors not trusting each other and parents coming home beaten because someone said something. In some ways, Russians worse than Nazis.
Night walk back to hotel with a few others from group plus Anna. Gone is Janina, a sweet, knowledgeable woman.
May 19, Sunday: Krakow to Budapest.
6:30 am, luggage put in hall for bus trip.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
8:00 am. Leave on tour bus for Budapest.
Bus traveled south out of Krakow, thru rolling land with farm fields, small villages, and some woodlands.
Stopped at a road side gas travel area for bathroom. The land open and rather flat here. Then became rolling hillsides after boarding. Some picturesque villages away from main roads.
We later entered Slovakia with only a minor stop to check our weight, Anna said (but laughed). Then off again into more hills and woods, continually traveling higher to 3,000 feet.
Anna would speak in comments ending with “yah”. Then we go to rest stop in 15 minutes, yah. You will like the restaurant food, yah. Did you have enough time, yah?
Reminded of my family ending many sentences with “and so”. We will go to the store first, then the bank, and so.?
Stopped at a ski resort in Donovaly for lunch at "Donovalsky Pivovar" or also "Stodola"?
Walked some outside metal grate stairs to the restaurant.
Building next door named "Donoval Brewery". Roast pork lunch with salad, herb dumplings, salads to choose, espresso coffee. Some light rain while there.
The road thru Slovakia wove up and down, zigzagging thru hills, with a few road work areas where stop lights were installed for one lane traffic. Most of the land forested in the higher elevations. Road work is done on small scale.
Continued south thru Slovakia. Here the villages at times very close to road. Parishoners were gathered near their quaint chuches or strolling nearby in conversation. Tiny roadside prayer adoration stands stood along the road in country areas.
The land elevation lowered again before entering Hungary without stopping. The land opened up more. We were told the fields were large due to the Communist regime way of farming where they took the small farms to make large business agriculture, and the land has stayed this way since.
Slovakia and Czechia have a mutual commitment of support with one another.
One more stop for bathroom break nearer Budapest.
Cannot recall the exact place.
We entered Budapest, arriving downtown to the "Hotel Continental". Budapest is a city with tall 5-8 story stone buildings on the Pest side. Our hotel in Pest on a one way narrow street some blocks east of the river. But we could walk to river and over bridges in 20 minutes. Hotel had a large dark brown metal turn style door. An older, stately, hotel that worked for us. View of small courtyard from window on 3rd? floor. Dick Van Dyke style beds in room.
6 pm orientation with Hungary guide Klara. Motherly Anna, of course along for whole of trip. Klara 47 years old I think she said. blond bounce hair, thin, chiseled down nose. Same good person type as other guides.
15 minute walk to dinner at "Koleves" restaurant, upstairs. Older place with wood creaking floors. Jewish style fish, warm salad fo carrots, zucchini, bell pepper strips. Dessert with 2 ball scoops chocolate covered liquor flavored white cream inners. Glass of red wine, "Jackfall Totagas". plus "Chavarian Lager" beer.
Walked back to hotel on crowded narrow streets. Some street visitors visiting from southern Turkish/Bosnian because drinks are cheaper here.
Street names hung on corner buildings. Hard to remember names because of language.
May 20, Monday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. This the most varied laden display of food at breakfast. Thick bacan/hams, numerous pastries, breads. cheeses, hot meats, hot potato dishes, hot soup types, hot veggies in sauce, beans. Large iron kettles for some. And fruits, puddings, rich cake slices, juices, onions.
Note: Each hotel had the coffee makers with button choices of Americano, espresso, latte, etc. available.
Political and economic lecture at hotel.
Hungary has only one larger lake, 375 or so acres, and use for summer retreats. 60%? of population live in Budapest.
Current President is moderate right.
Bus trip to City Park and "Heroes Square" via historical Andraasy Street, homes of the original wealthy families. Tall, large, tightly spaced stone mansions, on a wide boulevard. However, boulevard is filled by center tree island, bike lanes, sidewalks, and double direction lanes.
After a discussion and site seeing walk, we continued to "Szechenyi Garden", a low lying more plain utility restaurant serving up teas, water, juices. This place more for a rest and drink area while tour walking.
Bus ride to the "Old Opera House". Renowned hall, adorned with historical ornaments.
On an adjoining stone stair case, we looked down to see 2 opera singers perform a short male/female tease affair, set in fron of her wardrobe and mirror. Parts of 4 famous operas.
The bus drove back to hotel. We got off earlier at river’s edge, about 20 minute walk from our hotel.
We walked northward, then west across the south side of the "Scechenyl Brigde", (also called the Chain Bridge?), and meandered on Buda side street near river, then back over same bridge taking north side. Bridge very "Brooklyn Bridge-esc.
The sun grew hot, and our walk back to hotel required a map get out and street sign discovery. We did not take out smart phone map.....too tired to realize our handy phone could help this day.
Note: Our lunch consisted of an apple, peanut butter crackers, bar snacks, and water brought along from hotel. We ate near bridge before crossing.
Washed up in hotel room. Rested on bed with my feet throbbing this time.
6 pm. We met in hotel lobby and walked to the Jewish Quarter nearby. With a solid downpour outside, we walked to see the stone map on wall near out hotel outlining the original streets.
Contineued on to a "ruin pub". Called this because it has not been updated since the last wars. Each of offered a vodka/pear or berry tall shot. A local drink here. Rain continued at this semi open bar.
We walked on to restaurant "Macesz Bistro" on dub utca 26 (street). Large skinless chicken breast dropped i pumpkin/squash sauce (reddish), with small round potatoes, supposedly a Jewish dish. A few Hungarian young professionals mixed in at our long tables. They volunteer their time to talk, eat, and answer questions about them and their country.
Rain stopped as we walked back to hotel. It was Pentecost weekend, a catholic feast day on Monday. Though residents no longer observe the catholic element, they did take off from work, and enjoyed the weekend thru Monday nightlife with us.
May 21, Tuesday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel 7 am.
8:30 am. Walk to the Palace district. Again on Pest side of river. Pest streets, mentioned earlier, have the tall stone buildings of apartments, businesses, and stately homes. On business streets, the ground floors are stores.
Wenckheim Palace. Now Szabo Ervin library. Historic filled rooms. Once made for their family, there are dining, dancing, study rooms, a monument room, and hidden wall entrences for butlers and maids to attend the family.
A lecture room displaying maps of early 1700's United States, a Wisconsin area map, a California area map.
The Count and family lived here in 1890's. Then left with war coming. Back and out again some years . And returning in 1925 with wars ending.
Back in the city park area, a statue of Ronald Raegen looks to our U.S. embassy. A tribute to him (and Margaret Thatcher) for getting them to join the European Union for protection.
Took the electric trolley line (overhead wires typical for all cities we visited). With some here on rubber wheels, but still using overhead wires. Got off at Kossuth Square. Saw the Hungarian Parliament building, Liberty Square, where some group, most likely the Russians, gunned down hundreds during a peaceful march to Parliament. An underground museum solemnly records the event in large black and white photos. Also films running of old survivors remembering the event.
Then a walk to riverbank where an art display is of empty shoes lining river walk. This is where citizens were shot and dropped in river. Art landmark.
Next, a walk to "First Strudel House". Large bowl of steaming hot Hungarian Goulash-reddish sauce with vegetables. Then a strudel folding demonstration using apple chunks and cottage cheese, with us eating the still warm pastry pieces, with coffee, after. Rosie was given a glutten free cherry desert.
An open afternoon. 7 of us walked 20 minutes to "The Street Market" near the river, a famous long food lined building of smoked meats, cheeses, deserts, liquor, raw farm vegetable, paprika vendors, candies, and tons of collectible memorabilia set up on a second floor.
We 7 split up to shop independently. Rosie and I walked back to hotel later, taking first a route north along river Danube, then turning onto Szbad-Kossuth-Rakoczi-to Dohamy (our hotel). We freshened up, took elevator to roof. Saw the outside pool and the neighboring building roofs nearby. Then downstairs to hotel retaurant for a light supper, wine, beer, watching street walkers go by.
An evening walk out some blocks, then up to hotel room for the night.
May 22, Wednesday. Budapest.
Breakfast buffet at hotel 7 am.
9:15 am. Walked to the Tram (street bus on rails with above wires).
Drove about 6 blocks to the Hungarian National Galery, across river, on Buda side. The castle high on overlooking hillside to river below and Pest. Outside courtyard. The many painted Christian carvings made in rural villages and brought to city, during the old Hungarian Kingdom.
12:30 pmn. Lunch at "Korana Kavehaz" restaurant nearby. Large Caesar salad (more on the mayo side) and choice of desert. Mine....coconut cheesecake from display case. And espresso coffee. Getting used to strong coffee all over.
More walking. To "Civilian Town", the north part of castle district.
Then to St. Mathias Church. A huge, tall Gothic church. Side stairs brought us to 2nd floor.
Took a great upstairs photo of hazy lighting hitting pillars and pews, statues, below. A young man started playing organ music.
3:30 pm. Free time. No buses allowed up in castle district. So guides called taxis to drive us back to hotel after a wait to organize the taxis.
Freshened up.
Headed for boat ride on the Danube. Both boat rides we had were very relaxing, and full of conversation. Abundant buffet again. Champagne, beer, wine with meal, all on lower deck.
Chicken quarters over red potato/squash type sauce, nugget noodles, vegetables in broth, breads, small cake deserts, and more smaller dishes.
Later walked upstairs to open deck for a beautiful evening as sun set over hills of Buda. Driver provided us a slow river ride once we turned back on trip. Excellent evening.
Said goodbye to Klara, our informative Hungarian host.
May 23, Thursday. Budapest to Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Large luggage bag out by door early.
Motor coach to Vienna. We drove through western Hungary, seeing open farm fields with a few farm
machinery.
Noticed a solid line of semis heading west. For the Ukraine war effort, we heard.
Made a rest stop on highway. Inside the "station" was a delicious looking buffet spread of meats, potatios, veggies. and more. We were not hungry at this stop. Water was always available on bus.
As we drew closer to Austria, many windmills, solar panels, and one huge oil refinery as we rode into Vienna.
Arrived at "Hotel Ananas", early afternoon. Quite far into city, but not close to old district like the other 3 cities we visited, where one walk would put us at the old center. Needed subway each time to old city center.
Intro to Vienna by lecturer, brochure, maps.
Lucas will be our Austrian host. About 30 years old. Nasel voice, dry humor attempts. Nice man. Longer black hair.
Interesting note, Hungarian language unlike any other language. Tribes settled the area and made the language. Ambulances, police cars and such, have long names not similar to other countries.
Took the "U4" line subway to old Vienna city center.
Toured giant St. Steven's Basilica. Another ancient church, darkish inside, filled with art, statues, alters.
Then walking around city center, ending at the Hasburg Dynasty courtyard. Horsed still held in stalls.
A walk to dinner nearby at "Beim Czaak", ( A Czech place in Vienna). Weinner schnitzel-breaded pork tenderloin, Schladminger beer- so smooth and creamy. Ice cream coating over a peach cream inner.
Took the U4 subway line back to hotel.
May 24, Friday. Vienna.
6:30 am. Breakfast buffet at hotel.
A tad less variety here. But still good variety And foods seldom rotated. Bacon thin and chewy. hmmm.
9 am: Lecture. Understanding Austria.
10:30 am. Private bus to "Ring Boulevard". Modern Vienna. UN building, busse across Danube River to the north and a quick u-turn back south. Surprised the Danube not a sightseeing worthy place. No high river banks. Downtown some blocks south of river.
Bus stopped at odd famous "Hundertwasser Village". An hour walk and trinket buying place.
Back to busy street and on the bus to lunch at "Schonbrun Stockl"?? Restaurant.
Avocado cuke salad with french bread, secret sauce dumplings with berry for dipping.
We stopped before seeing Palace.
Bus to Schondbrunn Palace, south of town. Summer residence of Hasburg family. Long multi story buildin on grounds. Sprawling tree filled, mowed, clipped, statued grounds. Exacting tree lines. But just small gravel filled walk ways. Large long building with meeting, dining, ballroom, study grand painted rooms.
Bus back to hotel for freshen up.
5:00 pm. Leave on U4 subway for dinner at "Stadtwirt Restaurant". 3 course meal. Viennese vegetable soup, braised rolled beef steaks, bacon, over mashed potatoes. White curd dumpling desert of hot 2 scoup balls filled with strawberries.
A walk to live concert. About 14 violin, horn,bass, drum muscisians playing on low stage before red curtains in long high ceiling room. A sampling of opera included affair with 2 dancers at times singing. Fun male/female bantering exchanged. Chairs were plastic replicas of high backed 1800's concert design....awful but sat comfortably enough.
Took the U4 subway again back to hotel. Late this night. 10:30 pm. A full day!
May 25, Saturday. Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
9:30 am lecture on "The Treasures of the Hasburgs". This family inter married (not uncommon then), and it produced the extended male chins found on family paintings. The married spanish blood later and chins went away.
10:30 am. Boarded the subway again to "Kunsthistoriches Museum". Famous paintings by Rahpeal, Bruegel, Rambrant, Vernmear. Large collection of christian themed paintings. Paintings of the royalty realizing the battle is lost and the male showing with a knife in hand....to kill his partner so she would not suffer later. A common theme then we were told.
The Hasburg Imperial Palace paintings. They collected enough to warrant building 2 places.
1:30 pm. On our own remainder of day.
We walked the old town, eating granola bars, apples, water, while standing on landing outside building with rain falling. Tried walking but stopped again 1/2 block north under a arched stoned car entry way with employee governing what cars alowed in. No vehicles came/went while there.
Then out again in a lighter mist, but walked south past the musuem again. Found a McDonalds for my coffee. China cup with large fresh hole doughnut. Fancy.
Continued walking around easterly and then north on a sidewalk treed parkway, to the Applied Arts Museum. Wood furniture, fabrics, inventions in the history of cloth. A large 'History of Protests" room. full wall displays sequential years world wide protests.
Walked south again but veered east into "Statue Park". Johanas Sraus gold statue, others. Small creek ran thru. Walled river "Weinflus"? bordered east side.
We cut west back into old center. Looked for dinner. Found a narrow street with restaurant menu outside. A waitress (or owner) welcomed our looking.
Took a chance and found a lovely 400 year old, round ceiling narrow restaurant named "Restaurant der Kuckuck". One couple entered later. Then a group of 5-6. Photos.
Took subway back. We purposely walked farther south to find a U4 entry only subway so as not to change trains enroute.
Back to hotel 7:30 pm.
May 26, Sunday. Vienna.
Breakfast buffet at hotel. Little or no food variations at this buffet. Every morning a marbled cake sitting for sweets. Coffee great as usual. Room is fine. But shower sits in center of tub with hard to hold shower head.
9:00 am. Lecture at hotel, "Great Musicians". While lecturer made comments on historical musical events, a guest violinist played parts of more well known songs as we the audience guessed the title...One gentlemen, Bill, in our group knew them all.
10:30 am. Private bus to art nouveau designed buildings. Otto Wagner.
A look at the Sezession Building. Exibition hall for contempory art.
A bus drive out of town to The Kircle am Steinoff designed church. After a long walk up hill on an old stone walk, we found this white modernistic tastEfully painted gold ornamented building, inside and out. On the grounds of a well known sanatorium with a questionable past. A simple white maker small lot on grounds of young people who died during experimentation with special needs kids. Painted interior was to be a calming help for the young in church.
A bus ride to "Restaurant Rellergown". Thin sliced soft beef plate with potatoes, side of steamed broccoli, colliflower, mushrooms.
Public bus ride to Belvadere Palace. Large grounds south of town with sloping, landscaped hillside with long view out to city outline. Museum art included "The Kiss", Gustav Klint. And more.....
4;15 pm. Private bus back to hotel.
6:15 pm. Bus ride out of town to old suburban wound street area. Private dinner, Wort Regina??
Family style dinner, Chicken, fried breaded pork, ham slices, another large plate of breaded veggies, mushrooms, colliflower an such. Bear and wine. (When drinks were included in a meal, it was one each. More were offered, and we paid for these before leaving).
2 musicians played throughout, one on accordion, one on violin. Playing well known American songs and world songs we would know.....and expecting some $$ handed their way for the service.
Buss brought us back to hotel for the day's end.
We said goodbye to Lucas.
May 27, Monday. Vienna to Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Set out large travel bags.
8:30 am. Depart for Prague. “Ahoy!” Anna would say on every bus trip. Motor coach drove north, northwest along winding river, on an interstate type road, thru Austria into Czechy. Again no stop at border.
Country of my Bohemian great, great, paternal grandparents ancestor side. And my German Bohemian Maternal great grandparents ancestor side.
I felt it.
Continued country travel to a truck rest stop, but it was closed. Luckily, a casual restaurant nearby, next to our road travels, left us use the rest room. Felt glad for Anna who until today had everything clicking for her. Walked around the place and some left for another gas station 2 tenths of a mile away to buy trinkets, chocolate bars.
On the road again only 1 hour more, stopping in Trebon, a super quaint village. Bus parked in lot south of village. We walked a worn dirt trail past 200 year old trees. Then up on a berm that held a lake used for carp farming, a popular industry here. Entered town past castle like buildings, past a walled entry, and found 2-3 block long town square with center fountain.
Lunched at....... Carp soup, fried dumplings, large bare salad of tomato, cuke, few leafy greens. No desert. Purchased a local beer. Pasquel Urquel. Probably the most served beer in Czechia I noticed later.
Back on bus. Drove thru rolling hilled farm land. Field tractor lanes blacktopped. Common for these countries is that farmers live in village, then drive to fields and back. Small dairy heards in countries we visited. Most lands for grains it seems.
Wooded lands are "farmed" by piling the brush on to large piles in open areas along roads.
I wondered if the burn them sometime in year.
We stopped before entering Prague at a large gas station. We were now only 10-15 minutes from my paternal great, great, grandfather and great, great grandmother's home village of Bendova Zahori. Married here about 1859. Then left for America.
Back on bus, entering Pragus outskirts. Industrial, business, trucking buildings first. The land fell away as bus drove past high buildings of apartments and such. Higher side hills then previous entry ways to other cities.
Our hotel "Hotel Central Park", bordered both old and "new town. "New" being relative as it was also very old.
5 pm discussion in hotel. Lucie our new city host. Then we found our rooms. Lucie, late 40’s, thin, dark hair, wise, charming.
An older stately building bunched in with others along city street with road repair being done to east. Glass elevator in hotel. Our room was small, with 2 narrow joining beds, a window with view of concrete wall nearby, and light only coming in from floors up roof opening. But, we were here and satisfied. Anna had mentioned at start of trip that hotel rooms would become smaller in later countries.
We walked to an open square where trolly rails round a corner and some stopped here. Had to be very alert when walking. Rail lines and stone layed pavement were all same height and of similar color. And the above electric lined trolly buses remained quiet going by.
Ate ar "L Kolkovna Celnice restaurant. Pork slices and mashed potato chunks, bread. Pasquel beer again my only choice.
8:00 pm. Rosie and I walked ourselves around hotel and to west side streets. We were 1-2 blocks from the old tower, a remanent of blackened stone forted city where tolls were paid to enter.
9:10 pm we returned to hotel for the night.
May 28, Tuesday. Prague.
7 am breakfast buffet at hotel. 2 rooms opened up as hotel breakfasters were many.
A varied display of foods here again. Some changed daily.
8:30 am. Walked thru our Old Town tour, stopping at a Jewish museum, next a synague, or was it the other way around. One with an old stone tablet cemetary. Alright, enough.Jewish legacy places on our trip we determined. If more, we might pass.
A light rain today throughout morning tours.
12:30 pm. Lunch at "Michal". Noodles with beef.
2 pm. We stopped for views of the Vltava river, here a low dam across wide river. Entered the Smetana museum. A musician played recorded pieces from Czech composers Smetana and Dvorak, with audience input, questions.
We walked across the St. Charles Bridge, now all pedestrian only. Many stautues on bridge, added in later years.
Took the tran rail back to near hotel where the big rail curve is, mentioned earlier.
Free evening.
We walked some streets around the Jon Huss statue in old square. Remembering Prague had another open area adjoining wide boulevard street.
Looking for dinner, we turned thru a walk thru building to another parallel shopping street. Then another open walk thru to find smaller courtyard used by restaurant "Mala Brasserie". Dinned in courtyard of small iron/wood tables and iron metal chairs. I ate flat bread pizza, beer. Rosie salad, wine.
7:45 pm. We walked back to hotel.
May 29, Wednesday. Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
8:45 am. Archateture lecture, History of Prague buildings.
10:30 am. Bus ride to Prague Castle.
A dark faced cathedral with large courtyards. A sloping view to city.
12:30 pm. Lunch in Prague Castle. Salmon sandwiches and fries. (The one meal I did not finish...tastebuds did not like)
Bus or tram took us back to hotel. Free afternoon.
4:30 pm. Bus ride to "rilke cyruse"?? restaurant on boat. Long, beautiful ride with our group and guides.
5:00 pm. A buffet of chicken quarters, fried breaded colliflower,cold stewed beets, chopped veggiies, soup/sauce, yellowed soft mashed potatoes.baked honey ham,cured long peppers, beer,wine, 4-5 small desserts to choose.
Walked upper deck after dining and talked after dining.
9:00 pm bus back to hotel.
May 30, Thursday. Prague.
Breakfast buffet at hotel.
Free morning. Walked to the old clock again. Took a better video there, without the rain, and left video run thru the full strikes for 9 am.
Rosie and I walked to the Mucha Museum for a test look see test.
Then a round-a-bout walk back to hotel.
11:00 am. Bus ride to Strahov Monestary.
The 1504 book on Americal, etc...
Bus back to hotel. Some rain falling.
We walked again to the Mucha Museum. This time to view and Rosie to shop there.
Walked thru the shopping streets again, all west of the old black tower.
Then to the center again with curved multi train track route.
Found the Restaurant "cerveny Jelen".Home of a top 4 brew master in country. We were told the hockey player who scored the "winning" first goal to end the pro hockey playoff, was sitting outside restaurant. Chose a special poured beer of 1/2 Urquel lager and 1/2 old vintage dark beer.
Wine for Rosie. No food.
More free time and readying room for our USA return.
6:45 pm. Walked to our good bye farewell 3 course dinner at the "Municipal House nearby.
Potato round scoups with beef slices I believe.
At end, we rang our glasses to Anna. Then sang, "For she's a jolly good fellow..."
A short speech by Anna. Said no one ever sang to her on a trip and we all laughed.
Said good bye to Lucie, our helpful Czechia host.
Walked back to hotel.
May 31, Friday. Prague to USA.
6:45 am. Departed in van to airport. Anna had breakfast bagged for us 6 leaving at that time.
A big hug with Anna, who allowed our thanks for all she did. And out we went into a van. Long ride with city/suburb winding streets. And a mile or so tunnel half way there. Krakow airport compact and clean.
Luftansa flight from Krakow, to Munich.
Munich airport longer with tad confusing rail system.
Luftansa flight from to Munich to Chicago.
777 Boeing. Plenty to eat and drink again on flight.
Hard bouncing from one wheel side to the other on landing. Wind? All just glad we landed.
United flight from Chicago to Appleton. Our first and only soft landing.
June 1: We left Krakow on May 31, morning, and entered Chicago on June 1, evening, of same 24 hr period.)
Probably why little jet leg. But a mental hangover from our beautiful trip lasting for days.
Best trip ever we've been on. Most anticipated. It did not dissapoint. Good easy going travelers to be with for 14-15 days.
Smoothest beer found: Schladminger BioZwicki, an organic Austrian barley lager beer. Yes!, the 60 something year old waiter agreed.
End.
